Retrogusti Profile
Name: Lorenzo Tirabassi
Age: 33 years old
Origin: Correggio (Reggio Emilia)
Where he cooks today: Lodo 60 Rio Saliceto (RE)
Ever since I was a child, the magic of cooking has fascinated me. I started at the Carpi hotel school (MO) in 2009, and from there I gained experience across almost all of Italy, from north to south, working in Michelin-starred and non-starred restaurants: Casa degli Spiriti in Costermano (VR) as my first season in 2009, then Hotel Gran Ancei in San Cassiano (BZ), the 5-star Hotel Fanes in San Cassiano (BZ). In 2012 I attended Alma, the international school of Italian cuisine, and there I did an internship with chef Pino Cuttaia at La Madia restaurant in Licata (AG), a 2-Michelin-star restaurant. After that, I worked in other restaurants in my area between Reggio Emilia and Modena, including La Bottega del Pesce shop and restaurant in Rio Saliceto (RE), Stubai in Carpi (MO), and others. In 2016 I took part in the TV program Hell’s Kitchen 4 with Carlo Cracco, and then in 2021 I returned to South Tyrol before opening the restaurant, at the 3-star Hotel Gran Ander in Badia (BZ).
His world
Ingredients that represents him
Mortadella
Ingredients that he avoids
None, but every ingredient has to make sense in the dish.
The dish that makes him feel like a child again
Cappelletti in capon broth
A master
Gualtiero Marchesi
The setting
Restaurant: Lodo 60
Via San lodovico 58/60 Rio Saliceto (RE)
Seats: 54 in the dining room and about 90 in the event room
Sous chef: Athos Chinaglia
Team: Roberto Cantarelli, Ali Bassano
Sommelier: Enrico Gualtieri
Dining room: Gabriele Tirabassi, Giulia Lo Monaco, Davide Tirabassi
Philosophy
Cuisine that uses local produce, especially seasonal ingredients, with menus that change every 4–5 months depending on the season.
The 5 Retrogusti questions
What is the aftertaste of your cuisine?
It’s the memory of when I was little, with simple dishes but with aromas, sensations, and combinations that remind me of home.
What is not seen on the plate but is so important?
The selection of seasonal ingredients and dishes designed with perfect pairings.
A mistake that made you grow?
I used to think that innovating meant overturning tradition. I realized that small details are enough to make a difference.
A culinary tradition that tells the story of your region better than a thousand words?
Cappelletto, fresh egg pasta and meat filling just like my grandmother used to make, with the fresh pasta folded in a way that brings back childhood.
How do you see your kitchen in the future?
It will be based on the seasonality of the products, as it is now; that is my philosophy, and of course, listening to the customer and their needs.
The signature dish
A tasty dish that combines memory, local tradition, and technique. It appeals to both adults and children.
Poached egg with king oyster mushrooms, potato foam, and black truffle
A simple dish that brings together memory, place, and technique. It doesn’t aim to impress, but to achieve balance and authenticity.
Ingredients (4 servings)
For the poached eggs
• 4 very fresh eggs (preferably organic)
• 1 liter of water
• 2 tablespoons white vinegar
For the king oyster mushrooms
• 400 g king oyster mushrooms
• 1 garlic clove
• 30 g butter
• Extra-virgin olive oil as needed
• Salt and pepper as needed
• Fresh thyme
For the potato foam
• 500 g floury potatoes
• 150 ml fresh cream
• 50 g butter
• 50 ml whole milk
• Salt as needed
• Nutmeg as needed
To finish
• Fresh black truffle as needed
• High-quality extra-virgin olive oil
•Fleur de sel
Preparation
1. Potato foam (creamy base)
1. Peel the potatoes and cook them in salted water.
2. Drain them and pass them through a potato masher.
3. In a small saucepan, heat the cream, milk, and butter.
4. Add to the potatoes and whisk until smooth and airy.
5. Adjust the seasoning and add a pinch of nutmeg.
6. For a gourmet touch: transfer to a siphon with 1–2 gas chargers (optional but recommended).
2. King oyster mushrooms
1. Clean the mushrooms with a damp cloth and slice them.
2. In a skillet, heat the oil and butter with the garlic clove.
3. Add the mushrooms and sauté over high heat.
4. Season with thyme, salt, and pepper.
5. They should be golden and meaty, not watery.
3. Perfect poached egg
1. Bring the water to a gentle simmer (not a boil).
2. Add the vinegar.
3. Create a whirlpool with a spoon and pour the cracked egg into the center.
4. Cook for about 2.5–3 minutes.
5.Drain on paper towels.
