Every time I go to Venice, I can't help but step into a bacaro. It's like a ritual, a mandatory stop that reconnects me with the city's most authentic soul.
These small venues have a unique charm: they offer much more than a glass of wine and a few cicchetti, they provide an experience that tastes of tradition and everyday life.
The bacari represent the heart of a centuries-old tradition that embodies the essence of urban social life. These small establishments, often modest and informal, offer an authentic culinary experience, where conviviality and genuine flavors intertwine in a welcoming and relaxed environment.
Originally born as inns for merchants, gondoliers, and workers, since the 14th century the bacari have been a reference point for those seeking a glass of wine and a quick snack.
The famous cicchetti, small dishes that reflect the city's history through taste, are the heart of their culinary offering.
The term "bacaro" seems to derive from "Bacchus"
the God of wine, highlighting the unbreakable bond between these places and the Venetian winemaking tradition. Initially, bacari were simple and accessible places where bulk wine was served directly from the casks. These unpretentious spaces were designed to create an informal and welcoming atmosphere, ideal for socializing and taking refuge from everyday hustle. Even today, the essence of bacari is reflected in their ability to offer a corner of tranquility, a place to stop for "a shadow" of wine and enjoy the company and relaxed atmosphere of the narrow Venetian streets.
The cicchetto, with its variety, is the true protagonist of the gastronomy of the bacari. Among the numerous cicchetti that I have had the pleasure of tasting, the one with creamed cod is undoubtedly my favorite. This creamy and flavorful dish embodies for me the Venetian spirit, telling a part of the history and culture of Venice, uniting tradition and flavor in a single bite.
The sardines in saor, with their delicate sweet and sour balance, and the meat or fish meatballs, the stewed baby octopus, the cuttlefish in black sauce, and the fried vegetables are equally significant, offering a concentration of flavors that reflect the ingenuity of Venetian cuisine, born from the necessity to make the best use of available resources.
Every bite is a small culinary work of art.
Which tells a different story, revealed at the moment of the first taste.
But the real magic of the bacari goes beyond the food. It’s the environment that makes these osterie special.
Even when the locals are crowded, the atmosphere remains surprisingly relaxed. There’s a sense of tranquility that spreads throughout the bacaro, a sense of belonging that is rarely found elsewhere. The bacari are places where it is easy to exchange “do’ ciacole” with other patrons or, sometimes, with the host themselves. This informal interaction creates a sense of community and connection that is rarely found in more conventional restaurants. The opportunity to chat with people of all kinds, discovering stories and traditions through spontaneous conversations, enriches the experience and helps make every visit unique. It is this exchange of words and glances that makes the bacari an irreplaceable meeting point, a place where one returns not only for the food but for the company and atmosphere that cannot be found anywhere else.
In recent years, bacari have managed to evolve without losing their authenticity. Many historic establishments have paired classic cicchetti with new interpretations that, while playing with flavors and textures, remain faithful to tradition. This evolution is also reflected in the selection of wines, with many bacari offering not only classic bulk wines but also a curated choice of local labels. Attention has particularly focused on natural and organic wines, thus providing a tasting experience that combines tradition and quality, responding to the demands of a more modern and conscious clientele.
Ask for "a shadow" of wine
It is a gesture that evokes an ancient habit of the merchants in Piazza San Marco, who would move to the shade of the bell tower to keep the wine cool. This term, still in use, is a symbol of the deep connection between bacari and Venetian culture, a way of speaking that conveys respect for a tradition that has managed to remain alive and vibrant. I like to order an ombra in a crowded bacaro, observing the expressions on the faces around me, the smiles exchanged between friends and strangers, feeling like I am part of, if only for a moment, a world that seems to resist the passage of time.
Despite the evolution of tastes and habits,
The bacari continue to be a point of reference.
for those who want to experience an authentic experience in Venice. These venues, far from fleeting trends and mass tourism, remain places of meeting and exchange, where time seems to flow more slowly. Every cicchetto tells a story, woven into the culture and territory of a city that never ceases to fascinate. It is this balance between simplicity and authenticity that makes the bacari a truly unique experience, a gastronomic refuge where every visit becomes an opportunity to immerse oneself in the daily life of Venice and discover a corner of history through every tasting.
