"Under three fingers is carpaccio," it is said in Tuscany; a true declaration of intent, a limit below which one risks finding themselves sharpening swords and reinforcing walls to defend against the Tuscan rebels. In honor of the most classic regional campanilism, each will claim the primacy of everything.
Let's arm ourselves with a fork and tongs
So, why the most ancient of cooking techniques, the way shared by all civilizations to appease the gods, the sum of human needs (nourishment/heat/sociality) finds solid foundations in the ritual of grilling.
Thinking about how to tell this story, so many childhood memories came back to mind related to barbecues with family or friends; and I was surprised to constantly find the image of Kafkaesque transformations, of men no longer men after hours of white-hot coals and toxic fumes. Don Quixote-like heroes defending the beloved food lovingly seated at the altar from the blasts of the embers that sat at the table still smoked before the cold and hardened food.
In a brief historical overview, let’s revisit memories from the 1910s, when an overseas influence, perhaps from the USA, arrived in Italy, albeit somewhat late compared to the rest of Europe: the barbecue (possibly labelable under the term “Culinary Influences”? Oh yes, and what do you think, that only you Italians know how to cook?) that goes beyond the liminal concept and reshuffles the cards.
It turns out that it is not necessary to exhaust oneself in front of the inferno of the fireplace. It is a relief to learn that, with the right precautions, cuts of meat traditionally considered less desirable, relegated to timid boiled dishes, can become the diamonds of the summer garden or terrace party.
The tip of the beef breast rises from the murky waters of the broth.
To elevate to a level of excellence and internationalize by changing its name to “brisket”; what a delightful leap forward. “Pulled Pork” transcends the boundaries of perception, asserting itself at every local festival or respectable event. The explosion of the new-style hamburger that has filled our cities certifies the shift in paradigm; another exemplary case is that of the bun (typical American hamburger bun) filled with pulled pork.
Here are our Cinderellas transforming into relaxed dispensers of chewable joy, old charcoal grills becoming modern BBQs with stones and charcoal or gas, strictly equipped with the accessory that is not an accessory, namely the lid. The (r)evolution is not yet complete; to crown the cooking process, we have specially created sauces, temperature control probes, and combustion supplies controlled via app. The big BBQ brands are arriving from the USA; many of you might have seen in someone's garden grills with a vaguely spherical shape that have helped bring indirect cooking techniques to Italy, with a covered grill and the famous chimney starters for quickly achieving perfect coals.
But there is much more to find under the sky, ceramic products halfway between a grill and an oven that nod to Japanese culture, as well as heavy cast iron with wood and charcoal fuel options up to pellets, with the possibility of managing fuel and temperature remotely.
The design of a barbecue becomes the recipe of a chef
There is an idea, a line to prepare, and steps to execute.
This is where fun and competition come into play, because no passionate action is safe from the temptations of comparison and competition. Many adopt regulations and programs to set up national championships, and even in Italy, although with limited participation, the dynamics are in motion, leading the friends of Leon BBQ Team to secure the opportunity to participate in the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational 2023. A two-day event in October that transforms Lynchburg, the hometown of JD, into the world capital of BBQ, bringing about 30,000 enthusiasts over the weekend.
The competition is fierce, based on tastes and coded aesthetics; it is not easy to stand out, but ours brings home the award for the best Halloween-themed stand. And then a lot of appreciation, the knowledge of "giants" in the industry, of mythical yet tangible and very human figures, the story of a journey in an America you might not expect. Returning to the essence of participating to share, to learn, and then to enjoy the fruits of the chefs' labor in friendship, the subtle difference between seasoning and a few extra minutes or degrees makes all the difference in the world.
Aren't these perhaps the eternal calls?
What have we not stripped away for millennia? The need for nourishment, the necessity of shelter from the cold, the need for sharing. Let’s ban useless debates over who has the primacy, whether eggs or chickens: let’s light a fire, whether it be from wood or gas. Each to their own dish: let’s put something to cook, paying attention or not to ethical choices, always prioritizing the healthiness of cooking and the balance of ingredients, which is possible today. Let’s give hope even to that sad, reckless figure who stood out from behind roasting his own flesh in the flames of makeshift forges. From today on, let him also sit down to enjoy the fruits of his labor in company. Raise your glasses high: thank you, America.
And if you want to impress your guests at the table, if you are curious to learn techniques and tools; in short, if you want to take a step forward in managing fires and flames, you can always take a look at the courses offered by Alex, team leader of the Leon Team, courses for all tastes and experiences; basic and advanced level courses, themed on chicken or beef steaks, but also fish or meatless and even vegan. But be prepared, it will open up a universe from which it might be hard to escape.
