RETROGUSTI PROFILE
Name: Mirko Cairone
Age: 1989
Hometown: Battipaglia (SA)
Current location: Montalcino (SI)
Career Path
He began his career as a self-taught chef, fortunate enough to have met figures of the caliber of Niko Romito, who opened his eyes to the essence of cooking. His culinary foundation is French with a strong Spanish influence, shaped by these encounters.
HIS WORLD
Ingredient that represents him: Bell peppers
Ingredient he avoids: None
The dish that makes him feel like a child again: Meatballs in tomato sauce
A mentor: Niko Romito
THE SETTING
Restaurant: Il Passaggio by Capanna
www.ilpassaggiobycapanna.com
Seating: 26
Kitchen Team
Sous chef: Alessio Tagliabue
Station chef: Simone Loconzolo
Pastry chef: Alessandro Troiani
Commis: Alessia Tafi
Commis: Marcos de Medeira
Maitre & Sommelier: Jozefina Mecaj
Philosophy
My cuisine is based on a simple principle: respect for the ingredients. No frills, no distractions. I work closely with producers, because understanding where an ingredient comes from is already half the battle. Technique is at the service of flavor, never the other way around.
THE 5 RETROGUSTI QUESTIONS
What is the aftertaste of your cuisine?
Subtraction. I remove until only what makes sense remains. The superfluous has no place in my work, and I believe that comes through in the dish: few frills, plenty of substance.
What isn’t visible on the plate but carries immense weight?
My travels. Every time I’ve moved, I’ve learned to look at things from a different angle, and that perspective always ends up, in some way, in what I cook.
A mistake that helped you grow?
Focusing everything on myself. Over time, I realized that a kitchen can’t rely on just one person. It’s a painful lesson, but one I won’t forget.
A culinary tradition that speaks to your region better than a thousand words?
Peasant cuisine. Simple, rooted in the land, built on local cheeses and vegetables that don’t need to be improved, just respected. That’s where I still find my compass.
How do you see your cuisine in the future?
Replicable. I know that might sound like a cold word, but for me it’s a concrete challenge. Staff shortages are a reality in the industry that can’t be ignored, and a kitchen that depends entirely on its leader is a fragile one. I want to build something that can stand on its own even without me.
THE SIGNATURE DISH
Artichoke, almond, and chimichurri.
Recipe
Artichokes Preserved in Brunello di Montalcino
Ingredients
2 kg fresh artichokes (Mammole or Roman variety)
750 ml Brunello di Montalcino
500 ml white wine vinegar (6%)
500 ml water
120 ml extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
1 lemon
12 g fine salt
8 g sugar
black peppercorns
1 bay leaf per jar
fresh thyme or catmint
Preparation
To prepare jarred artichokes preserved in Brunello di Montalcino, start by cleaning about 2 kg of fresh artichokes, removing the tough outer leaves and peeling the stems. As you clean them, immediately submerge them in cold water acidulated with lemon juice to prevent them from turning black.
In a large saucepan, bring a mixture of 750 ml Brunello di Montalcino, 500 ml water, 500 ml white wine vinegar, 12 g salt, and 8 g sugar to a boil. When the liquid comes to a boil, add the artichokes and blanch them for about 4–5 minutes: they should be tender but still firm and firm to the bite. Gently drain them and let them dry on a clean kitchen towel for about 30–40 minutes to remove excess moisture.
Meanwhile, prepare the previously sterilized jars by placing a clove of garlic, a few black peppercorns, a bay leaf, and a few sprigs of fresh thyme or catmint at the bottom. Arrange the artichokes in the jars without crushing them too much, keeping them neatly arranged. Then cover them with a mixture consisting of 70% filtered Brunello cooking liquid and 30% extra virgin olive oil, leaving about one centimeter of space from the rim of the jar.
Seal the jars tightly and proceed with pasteurization by submerging them completely in a pot filled with water; bring to a boil and let them pasteurize for about 30 minutes. Once pasteurization is complete, turn off the heat and let the jars cool directly in the water until completely cool, then check that a vacuum seal has formed properly.
Let the preserves mature in a cool, dark place for at least 20 days before consumption, so that the wine blends perfectly with the artichokes, developing elegant and complex aromas. Unopened jars will keep for about 8–10 months; once opened, they must be stored in the refrigerator, ensuring that the artichokes remain covered by the liquid and oil at all times.
Grill it on the BBQ just before serving.
Almond Sauce
Fermented and Oxidized Almond Sauce
Ingredients (approx. 500 g)
Fermented Base
200 g raw, peeled almonds
200 g water
4 g salt (2%)
Oxidized base
120 g blanched almonds
20 g mild extra virgin olive oil
Final Emulsion
120 g 100% pure almond paste
200 g hot water or light almond milk
12 g lemon juice
8 g light honey
5 g white wine vinegar
4 g salt
white pepper to taste
Preparation
Start by preparing the fermented component: place the raw almonds in water and salt and let them ferment for about 48 hours at room temperature (around 20–22°C). During this time, the natural lactobacilli develop a mild lactic acidity and a scent reminiscent of yogurt and kefir. Once fermentation is complete, drain the almonds and dry them thoroughly.
Next, prepare the oxidized component by placing the raw almonds in the Ochoo and starting the oxidation program for 10 hours.
For the sauce, place the fermented almonds, oxidized almonds, and almond paste into the blender. Add half of the hot water and blend at high speed until a smooth cream forms. Stir in honey, lemon juice, vinegar, and salt to balance the acidity and natural sweetness of the almonds. Continue blending while slowly pouring in the extra virgin olive oil to create a stable, velvety emulsion, gradually adding the remaining water until the desired consistency is reached.
Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer if you want a perfectly silky texture, and let it rest in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours: during this time, the fermented note becomes more elegant while the oxidized note emerges in the aromatic finish.
Chimichurri
Ingredients (approx. 350 g)
170 g fresh mint (leaves only)
70 g fresh chervil
8 g fresh oregano (or 2–3 g high-quality dried)
1 small clove of garlic, core removed
170 ml mild extra virgin olive oil
30 ml grapeseed oil
6 g fine salt
white pepper to taste
mild fresh chili pepper to taste
Preparation
Wash and dry the mint and chervil thoroughly, making sure the leaves are completely free of water so as not to affect the sauce’s shelf life and texture. Finely chop the herbs with a knife, maintaining a lively, uneven texture to preserve the fresh, aromatic character of the mint.
Transfer the herbs to a large bowl along with the oregano and very finely chopped garlic, then add the salt and work the mixture with a spoon for a few minutes: this step serves to lightly “sweat” the herbs, releasing the essential oils and softening the plant structure.
The result should be a dressing where the oil coats the herbs without completely engulfing them.
Finish with white pepper and a hint of very finely chopped fresh chili pepper. Let it rest for at least 30–60 minutes before use to allow the mint to blend with the oil and develop a more rounded and persistent flavor.