Piemonte | ITALY

A pepper with the flavor of… Monopoly

History of the square pepper from Motta di Costigliole d'Asti. It is grown by only one producer in Italy, Stefano Scavino. And it inspired Carlo Petrini to imagine the birth of Slow Food.

Piemonte | ITALY

A pepper with the flavor of… Monopoly

History of the square pepper from Motta di Costigliole d'Asti. It is grown by only one producer in Italy, Stefano Scavino. And it inspired Carlo Petrini to imagine the birth of Slow Food.

In collaboration with:

Slow Food Presidio Square Pepper from Motta di Costigliole d’Asti

There is a vegetable that goes beyond food and speaks of a region, a knowledge passed down over time, and a stubborn will to resist. It is the Quadrato Pepper from Motta di Costigliole d'Asti, a Slow Food presidium, cultivated for over a century on the plains along the Tanaro, in an area of Piemonte where horticulture has deeply influenced the life of local communities. In recent decades, however, this cultivation has progressively decreased. The lack of generational change, competition from southern and international productions, and increasingly unstable seasons have limited its spread, pushing many farmers to turn to activities considered more profitable, such as viticulture. Yet something has remained. There are those who have chosen not to let it go, like Stefano Scavino, the sole producer of this vegetable.

There is a vegetable that goes beyond food and tells of a territory, a knowledge passed down over time, and a stubborn will to resist. It is the Quadrato Pepper from Motta di Costigliole d'Asti, a Slow Food presidium, cultivated for over a century on the plains along the Tanaro, in an area of Piemonte where horticulture has deeply influenced the life of local communities. In recent decades, however, this cultivation has progressively decreased. The lack of generational change, competition from southern and international productions, and increasingly unstable seasons have limited its spread, pushing many farmers to turn to activities considered more profitable, such as viticulture. Yet something has remained. There are those who have chosen not to let it go, like Stefano Scavino, the only producer of this vegetable.

As a child, he saw it at the market stalls next to his grandmother and, as an adult, he wondered why that pepper had disappeared.

From that question began a patient search for seeds that were no longer on the market, conducted among notes, contacts, and the memories of those who once grew them. After many interrupted leads, seeds dating back to the 1980s resurfaced. However, not all were viable, but those that were properly stored, dried, and kept cold in the university’s database had managed to withstand the test of time, allowing that story to return to the present.

From that question began a patient search for seeds that were no longer on the market, conducted among notes, contacts, and the memories of those who once cultivated them. After many interrupted leads, seeds dating back to the 1980s resurfaced. However, not all were viable, but those that were properly stored, dried, and kept cold in the university’s database had managed to withstand the test of time, allowing that story to return to the present.

That square pepper is not just any pepper. Its shape is truly compact and square, unlike the elongated ones that dominate the markets. Its fleshy walls exude an intense and sweet flavor, never spicy, with a high sugar content that makes it enjoyable even raw or simply roasted.

That square pepper is not just any pepper. Its shape is truly compact and square, unlike the elongated ones that dominate the markets. Its fleshy walls welcome an intense and sweet flavor, never spicy, with a high sugar content that makes it pleasant even raw or simply roasted.

The plant is not vigorous and requires careful care, from sowing in February to spring development up to harvesting, which begins in August and can extend beyond. For those who cultivate it, each season becomes an exercise in balance, patience, and slowness. However, much remains to be experimented with, as adapting this variety to current climatic conditions is not simple. The seasons are no longer what they used to be, and sudden temperature fluctuations, intense rains, and heat waves put to the test a crop that thrives on stability and measure.

"The square pepper is not just a vegetable: it is a memory to be carefully preserved with patience."

This is how Stefano Scavino defines it. And he emphasizes: “There’s no need to exaggerate, it speaks for itself.” But Stefano’s company doesn’t just grow peppers. Today, the farm spans about two and a half hectares of different vegetables, including the Asti Sorì artichoke from (another Slow Food Presidio), various types of cabbage, tomatoes, trumpet zucchinis, parsnips, and colorful beets. All grown with biointensive techniques, which protects the soil by reducing environmental impact and promoting more sustainable production.

This is how Stefano Scavino defines it. And he emphasizes: “There’s no need to exaggerate, it speaks for itself.” But Stefano’s company doesn’t just grow bell peppers. Today, the facility spans about two and a half hectares of different vegetables, including the Asti artichoke from Sorì (another Slow Food Presidio), various types of cabbage, tomatoes, trombetta zucchinis, parsnips, and colorful beets. All according to biointensive techniques, which protect the soil by reducing environmental impact and promoting more sustainable productivity.

The collaboration with the Michelin-starred restaurant Guido di Serralunga d’Alba, a reference point of Piedmontese tradition, has given this pepper new expressive possibilities. Here it is reinterpreted in dishes such as the Square Pepper from Motta di Costigliole stuffed with tuna and capers, a recipe where the raw materials interact in a precise balance. Tradition, research, and technique intertwine in preparations where it also features rolls and dishes of contemporary inspired dishes, creating a natural bridge between gastronomic memory and today’s cuisine.

The collaboration with the Michelin-starred restaurant Guido di Serralunga d’Alba, a reference point of Piedmontese tradition, has given this pepper new expressive possibilities. Here it is reinterpreted in dishes such as the Square Pepper from Motta di Costigliole stuffed with tuna and capers, a recipe where the raw materials interact in a precise balance. Tradition, research, and technique intertwine in preparations where it takes the lead in rolls and dishes of contemporary inspiration, creating a natural bridge between gastronomic memory and today’s cuisine.

Traditionally, peppers are preserved in oil or vinegar with grape stalks, a local custom in the area, perfect to serve with bagna cauda. But the gastronomic story of this vegetable goes beyond that. The preparation that Stefano loves the most comes from a great Piedmontese gastronome, and it is peppers with parsley and garlic, simple but full of aromas and history.

Traditionally, peppers are preserved in oil or vinegar with grape stems, a household habit in the area, perfect to serve with bagna cauda. But the gastronomic story of this vegetable goes beyond that. The preparation that Stefano loves the most comes from a great Piedmontese gastronome, and it is peppers with parsley and garlic, simple but full of aromas and history.

The history of Slow Food Presidia originates from products like the Quadrato Pepper by Stefano Scavino.

Fewer showcase icons and more voices to listen to. According to the story, the idea to create the Presidia from Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, came to him during a dinner in Piemonte, when he realized that the quality of the peppers available no longer reflected the local tradition. From that realization came the intuition to bring to life a concrete protection project, capable of protecting the heirloom varieties and putting those who preserve them at the center, making them the protagonist of a broader and more shared narrative.

Fewer showcase icons and more voices to listen to. According to the story, the idea to create the Presidia would have matured in Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, precisely during a dinner in Piemonte, when he realized that the quality of the peppers available no longer reflected the local tradition. From that realization came the intuition to bring to life a concrete protection project, capable of safeguarding ancient varieties and putting those who preserve them at the center, making them the protagonist of a broader and shared narrative.

Today square peppers sell out quickly: demand exceeds supply. Stefano hopes that other companies will join this cause, as working together would make it easier to face agricultural and climate challenges. The product is already known and appreciated, there is no lack of interest, but a wider network of growers is needed to make its production more stable and widespread. In an area where viticulture has taken the place of horticulture because it is more profitable, continuing to grow this pepper is not just an agricultural choice, but an act of cultural identity.

Today square peppers sell out quickly: demand exceeds supply. Stefano hopes that other companies will join this cause, as working together would make it easier to face agricultural and climate challenges. The product is already known and appreciated, there is no lack of interest, but a wider network of growers is needed to make its production more stable and widespread. In a territory where viticulture has taken the place of horticulture because it is more profitable, continuing to grow this pepper is not just an agricultural choice, but an act of cultural identity.

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