The relationship between wine and the world of poetry is a topic that has aroused interest over the centuries, although to be honest, I personally had never thought to delve into this relationship. Curiosity arose during a trip I took last February: from Argentina, I decided to cross the imposing Andes mountain range to Santiago, Chile. Once I arrived in this vibrant, multicultural, and modern city, I was surprised to discover that one of the main tourist routes was the "Litoral de los Poetas," which combines culture, wine, nature, and poetry. This region, close to the Chilean capital and with Isla Negra as the tourist center, is home to renowned wineries.
"The house of the famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda."
Once the city tour is complete, we leave Santiago de Chile, always accompanied by the Andes Mountains. We begin our journey, which consists of various stops, with our final destination being the tourist town of Isla Negra.
Just a few kilometers away from the "Great Capital," we made our first stop, which exceeded my expectations by far. The landscape that welcomes us is stunning, wild, and rugged, offering us an image very different from what we would have expected. Matetic is the only winery located in the Rosario Valley, which gives it a truly pioneering spirit. Nestled between the Casablanca and San Antonio valleys, we are at a meeting point between the sea and the mountains. The climate of the area is somewhat particular: the influence of the sea is felt in the morning when fog appears, alternating, even during the summer, between cool days and hot days. I was surprised by the abrupt temperature change; we left the warm capital at 32 degrees Celsius and found ourselves at 20 degrees Celsius at noon in Matetic. The complexity of the wines from the area is due to its granitic soils, rich in quartz minerals, as well as the biodynamic farming methods used both in the vineyard and the winery.
"The complexity of the wines in the area is given by its granitic soils"
In this particular scenario, we began our experience by opening with a Classic Method, based on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We then proceeded with a Sauvignon Blanc. At first impact, I was struck by the presence of tropical notes (mango, papaya, etc.) along with hints of some aromatic herbs, which quickly transported me to the environment and area where I was. I found it fresh and slightly nervy, concentrated and vibrant. The freshness and presence of aromatic herbs blend elegantly with a deep minerality, a result of the granitic soils and oceanic influence. The characteristic of the red wines is the marked trait obtained from the strict application of biodynamic principles. Among these, the "Winemaker's Blend" captures my attention, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, and a small percentage of Petit Verdot. Its body, vibrant red color, and violet hues, along with floral, spicy, and earthy notes, make it an exceptional wine. The wood, intelligently integrated, adds further complexity and roundness, culminating in a long and elegant finish.
We leave this charming winery to delve into the Lo Abarca valley. In just 15 minutes, we reach Casa Marin. Despite the proximity, we completely changed our geographical environment and wondered whether there was a homogeneity -both viticultural and cultural- in the area and/or if we would be able to identify some particular traits that would allow us to understand its character.
"The history of this winery merges with that of its founder"
Maria Luz Marin, who became the first female winemaker in charge of a Chilean winery. It is here that I began to connect the local culture, its history, and, of course, the wines. Casa Marin was the first vineyard experiment planted throughout South America and on the Pacific coast, in a climate considered cool.
Our tasting began with a Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards on top of the hill directly facing the Pacific Ocean. On the nose, it presents intense salty aromas, grapefruit, and ripe citrus, complemented by fresh herbs, asparagus, and green mango. The clear acidity and salinity of the Pacific Ocean blend in this complex and balanced wine. We continued with a Syrah. On the nose, it is both sweet and spicy, with subtle balsamic aromas, lavender, and violet. The tasting note surprises us with intense and taut acidity as well as complexity despite its youth. We conclude our tasting with a Garnacha, a young vineyard planted in 2011, which thanks to its elegance and freshness, reminds us of the style of the Northern Rhône.
Before leaving for Isla Negra, we stopped at the restaurant nestled in the main vineyard of Casa Marin, to learn about shellfish, crustaceans, and even a type of seaweed, typical of the Pacific coast of Chile.
Among the various dishes we have eaten, I focus on the timbale with "cochayuyo", mussels, and "piures", the essence of the Chilean sea. Cochayuyo is an algae that has been for centuries one of the food resources of the South American indigenous community and is now part of Chilean gastronomy, being used for stews, salads, desserts, and soups. It can still be found in large quantities on the beaches and rocky areas of the Chilean coast. The "piures", on the other hand, are mollusks of intense red color, due to their high iodine content, with a strong and quite aggressive flavor that comes from vanadium, a soft metal that the "piure" concentrates when filtering seawater. The timbale made with these ingredients, with strong flavors, transported us directly to the sea.
"We leave Casa Marin with the rugged landscape in the background"
We are heading towards our final destination: Isla Negra. After crossing the picturesque village of Lo Abarca, we continued along a bumpy dirt road through eucalyptus forests. It was then that, unexpectedly, the Pacific Ocean revealed itself in all its grandeur, framed by the Valley of the Estero de Cartagena. The road connecting this valley to Isla Negra showed us the intense power of the ocean's wind, which influences the climate of the inland valleys and accompanied us to the house of Pablo Neruda.
Our goal was, in part, to explore and understand the possible connection between the sea, wine, and the poets who wrote great works from this coastal area, such as Vicente Huidobro, Pablo Neruda, and Nicanor Parra. Arriving at Pablo Neruda's house museum, the landscape showed us the strong bond with nature. We were struck by the sea air, vigorous and salty, infused with the deep aroma of salt and eucalyptus. We imagined Pablo Neruda holding a glass of wine,
"He was seeking inspiration between the sea and the mountains and passionately wrote his ode to wine."
In conclusion, the journey through the Litoral de los Poetas and the ocean wines has been an experience that showed us the connection between wine, poetry, and the unique environment of the Chilean coast. We discovered the influence of the sea on the wines, visited cutting-edge wineries, and contemplated the Pacific Ocean from Isla Negra. This journey further confirmed that wine, culture, and poetry are profound expressions of nature and the human influence on the terroir, in a timeless union.
