The earliest news of the use of smoked salmon dates back thousands of years, when some populations used the smoking process as a method to preserve fish for long periods. This practice, born out of necessity, has slowly transformed salmon into a delicacy, loved around the world for its rich and characteristic flavor.
Salmon has always played a central role in the cultures of the Nordic regions.
especially among the indigenous populations of Scandinavia and those of the northeastern coast of North America. Their proximity to rich waterways that nourished abundant salmon populations allowed for the emergence of fishing and fish preservation techniques, including smoking. Further south, the Celts were masters in the art of smoking fish and used this technique not only as a method of preservation but also to enrich its flavor. Smoked fish was considered a valuable food and a symbol of wisdom and knowledge. Later, the use of smoking also spread in Russia and Poland, and the technique of smoking became a common practice.
The smoking process helps prevent the growth of bacteria responsible for spoilage and extends the shelf life of fish, making it a staple food during the winter months.
In addition to the ability to preserve fish for longer, smoking gives salmon a richer flavor and a smoky taste that is highly appreciated. Salmon, prepared this way, has quickly become a delicacy, with a unique taste and texture that cannot be achieved with other preparation methods.
Smoked salmon arrived in the United Kingdom with the immigration of the Jewish people from Eastern Europe fleeing persecution in the early 19th century. They settled in East London, an area of significant immigration and poverty. Smoked salmon was called “Lax,” from the Yiddish word for salmon, but this product was far from the smoked salmon we know today. Initially, it was a product used only for personal consumption in the Jewish and working-class neighborhoods of London. Gradually, it began to be traded with locals as more Londoners acquired a taste for it.
The salmon came from the Baltic Sea in barrels filled with salt water.
in practice, a wet brine, and then the smoking took place in sheds in the gardens. The production of smoked salmon finally reached the Billingsgate fish market in London. And, at this point, an important change occurred: fresh Scottish salmon from cold waters replaced the Baltic variety, as it was available fresh every day. This change in raw material altered the course of history. Fresh Scottish salmon, among the best in the world, took smoked salmon to a much higher new level and rendered it uniquely British.
In addition to the superior quality of the fish itself,
Its freshness has allowed the replacement of the wet brine of the Baltic variety with a dry brine.
The salt could now be added dry, resulting in a firmer and meatier fish instead of the soft and often slimy texture of its predecessor. Additionally, the lines of fat and the density of the flesh of Scottish fish make them better for smoking. The fat captures the smoke, but the density of the meat prevents it from penetrating too deeply and promotes a very concentrated flavor and texture in the final product.
In the 1920s, this fantastic product was discovered by the London elite through Harrods and The Savoy hotel. Just as many other delicacies have been created, smoked salmon transformed from a necessity food into a luxury food.
There are two very different methods for preparing smoked salmon: cold smoking and hot smoking, but I much prefer the cold method because it does not cook the fish, achieving a delicate texture that preserves the sweet and creamy flavors of raw fish.
In London, there are still few smokers that produce high-quality smoked salmon. One of these is Wimbledon Smoke House. Managed by a multigenerational fishmonger, Moxon's has recently opened this smokehouse to create a high-quality product using the best fish and making the most of both traditional and more modern techniques.
To achieve the best result, the most important thing is the raw material, the salmon. The salmon arrives daily from Scotland, from a small-scale farm that follows high fish welfare standards and has a low environmental impact. The other key ingredient, besides the smoke, is salt: a sea salt harvested in Portugal is used.
The fish is first filleted, leaving the bones that will be removed only when the fish is smoked. This way, it prevents the smoke from penetrating too deeply. The fish is then ready for the next phase, the dry salting. The salt has two main functions: the first is to preserve, and the second is to season. Timing is crucial, as excessive salting can make the final product too salty and too dry. After salting, the fish is rinsed and air-dried. The salmon is now ready to be smoked.
The type of wood used is very important.
In Scotland, salmon is usually smoked with oak wood and bark.
The Wimbledon Smokehouse uses different types of wood: beech wood and fruit wood such as cherry. The exact blend is kept secret, as this ingredient gives a distinct flavor that varies depending on the smoker. Cold smoking occurs between 20 and 30°C for 6-12 hours: the outer part of the meat remains soft, which is essential for achieving an optimal result.
After spending the necessary time in the smoker, the smoked salmon is left to cool and develop its characteristic glossy finish. This is also the opportunity for the meat to continue absorbing and assimilating the flavors arising from the processes of salting, drying, and smoking. After all these meticulous steps, the salmon is ready to be sliced and packaged. At Wimbledon Smokehouse, most of the preparation is still done by hand, including the hand-filleting of the rib cage that has been left attached for smoking, so as not to damage the delicate meat.
Once ready, the salmon is sliced. This operation can be traditionally performed on the "long side," slicing the salmon into a long, thin slice, or with a "D" cut, slicing the fish on the wide side at a 45-degree angle to achieve the traditional "D" shape. It is then packaged and delivered to the best restaurants and delicatessens in London or directly to the homes of the most discerning customers.
Smoked salmon is a very versatile ingredient.
It is usually served for special occasions but also for breakfast, under an egg in Eggs Benedict Royal, in a bagel with a good spoonful of cream cheese, or perhaps turned into a perfect pâté with crispy bread or crudités.
Here is a simple recipe for a delicious tart or appetizer that can be made in just a few minutes:
Smoked salmon pâté:
