In January, the forced rhubarb from Yorkshire emerges with its scarlet pink stalks to add a bit of color to our table. This vegetable, often considered more of a fruit due to its culinary uses, is originally from Asia, probably from the cold region of Siberia. It was already known in Roman times by the name Rheum Rhabarbarum or "Rhenish foreigner," the river that once divided the Roman Empire from the "barbarian" lands. In Europe, it was brought along the Silk Road and trade began regularly for the medicinal properties of its roots, which contain oxalic acid.
Although poisonous, the powder obtained from the roots was used in small quantities to treat intestinal, liver, and lung disorders. It arrived in England in the 1600s for medical use, but starting in the early 1800s, the use of its stalks began to appear in recipes such as pies, crumbles, or syrups. Despite its history and charm, it was only in 2010 that "Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb" received Protected Designation of Origin status from the European Commission.
"Before World War II, the United Kingdom produced 90% of the rhubarb sold worldwide."
Then the rationing arrived and, with the little sugar circulating, its culinary use ceased. With the arrival of more exotic fruits in the 1960s, rhubarb slowly became a forgotten product. There were more than 200 farmers, but unfortunately today only about 12 farms survive, all still family-run and passed down from generation to generation. The pragmatic, empirical, and efficient mentality of 19th century England was put to work to bring a crop to full maturity in the heart of winter, when fruit was scarce, using local coal and sheep wool as energy and sustenance. The result was a tender and sweet delicacy that would characterize Yorkshire produce for centuries to come and highlight the poetic and romantic side of the region.
It was already known in Roman times by the name of Rheum Rhabarbarum or "foreigner of the Rhine".
In the United Kingdom, "forced rhubarb" grows in a specific area known as the "Rhubarb Triangle," which includes Wakefield, Leeds, and Morley in Yorkshire. In this area, the soil is rich in nitrogen, which, along with the damp and cold climate, provides the best conditions for rhubarb to thrive. Production during this time of year became a necessity as there was not a wide variety of fruit available. Their unique technique of underground cultivation of forced rhubarb and candlelight harvesting—similar to the cultivation of continental white asparagus to achieve a more delicate and sweet plant—has been developed since its beginnings in 1877. After spending two years outdoors, the plant is moved to a shed or cellar, where the rhubarb grows in complete darkness. This way, rhubarb grows faster compared to traditionally cultivated plants, "forcing" its way upwards in search of light necessary to produce glucose with chlorophyll, which is impossible in the dark.
The plant uses the energy stored in the root in the form of carbohydrates in this way. By utilizing the root's glucose reserve for growth, the result is a tender stalk with a much sweeter and less acidic flavor compared to outdoor-grown rhubarb. The shed is also heated, originally with the abundant "reserve" coal from the local mining industry, to maintain an optimal temperature for growth, and the soil is traditionally treated with "shoddy," a byproduct of wool (from another traditional Yorkshire industry, sheep farming). The high level of nitrogen created by decomposition acts as a natural fertilizer. Another labor-intensive yet romantic and poetic aspect of forced rhubarb is the harvest. Since rhubarb must avoid light, farmers are assisted only by a candle to shield the shed or cellar, and all harvesting is done entirely by hand. Once harvested, the rhubarb is placed directly into crates to prevent further light exposure.
"Rhubarb is a very versatile ingredient in the kitchen, with its tart and fruity notes that pair well with both sweet and savory foods."
I discovered that rhubarb is a very versatile ingredient in the kitchen, with its tart and fruity notes that pair well with both sweet and savory foods. It lends itself well to the preparation of chutney, which can be jarred and consumed later in the year, perhaps in spring, paired with fresh goat's milk or fresh cheeses. Another way to preserve it is by making pure rhubarb jam or perhaps mixing it with strawberries. Forced rhubarb pairs well, with its tartness, with fatty meats like pork or duck and, in a compote, is a beautiful combination with grilled mackerel fillet. At La Fromagerie, I use pickled forced rhubarb and serve it with a traditional product from my region, burrata. I love this unusual combination, with the sharp rhubarb beautifully cutting through the rich creaminess of the burrata. But there are many other pairings with which this overlooked vegetable can make a great return to our table.
Pickled rhubarb and burrata
