The third time is the one of the heart. Returning to Monteverdi Tuscany, nestled among the hills of the Val d’Orcia, was like embracing a place that never stops revealing itself. Castiglioncello del Trinoro, a medieval village suspended in time, is not just a destination: it is a sensory experience, a continuous dialogue between nature, art, and history, gracefully orchestrated by those who have been able to listen to its soul.
In 2003, American lawyer Michael L. Cioffi, originally from Cincinnati, fell deeply in love with this forgotten corner of Tuscany. He was not looking for investments, but for a dream to cherish. With the sensitivity of a Renaissance patron, Cioffi brought the village back to life, transforming it into a diffused hotel that celebrates authentic beauty and millenary culture.
Walking among the ancient stones of Castiglioncello del Trinoro is like leafing through a living manuscript. Every glimpse tells a story, every sunset paints a picture.
Here, beauty is never decoration, but a living language that unites the past and present.
Art is not confined to galleries: it is in the carefully restored architectural details, in contemporary installations that interact with the landscape, in the concerts and artist residencies that bring the village to life. During my stay, I had the privilege of attending a classical music concert in the former church of the village, now a vibrant cultural space. The notes spread among the ancient walls, creating a suspended, almost mystical atmosphere. A moment of pure harmony, where time seemed to stand still.
And then there is the flower workshop, a poetic corner where the florist Costanza teaches the art of floral arrangements. Watching her at work, among peonies, hydrangeas, and branches from the woods, was like witnessing a silent dance: every gesture told an intention, every bouquet a story.
An experience that gives value to ephemeral beauty and the deep bond with nature.
Right after, a visit to the Monteverdi Gallery, a refined and surprising exhibition space, where artists take turns bringing always new visions. The works interact with the landscape and the soul of the village, creating a continuous bridge between contemporary creativity and historical memory. Two moments, more than any other, have embodied the philosophy of Monteverdi: the dawn and the sunset viewed from the two sides of the village. The first overlooks the Val di Chiana, delicate and silent like a whispered promise; the second faces the Val d'Orcia, intense and enveloping, like a farewell filled with gratitude.
In those fragments of light, the essence of Monteverdi can be grasped: the ability to stop time and give meaning to simple things.
And then there is the kitchen.
The culinary proposal of Monteverdi Tuscany is a parallel journey, a story that intertwines with that of the village. Here too, the choice has been consistent and conscious: to entrust the project to chef Riccardo Bacciottini, who has embraced the project with deep conviction.
Bacciottini doesn't just cook: he interprets the territory. His menus, "Vegetable" and "Land," are a tribute to seasonality and local biodiversity. He is often found in the woods and orchards that surround Castiglioncello del Trinoro, personally gathering wild herbs, fruits, roots, and leaves that will become the stars of his dishes. Each creation is born from authentic research, shared with a close-knit team who view cooking as a cultural act and a gesture of love for the land.
Eating in Monteverdi is not just a gastronomic pleasure, but an immersive experience: each flavor tells a story, each dish is a page of that living book that is the village itself.
This third visit was different. More intimate, more aware. I felt the breath of the village, the slow heartbeat of its rebirth. And I understood that Monteverdi Tuscany is not just a place to visit, but to experience. A manifesto of what happens when vision meets passion, and history finally finds someone willing to listen.
