This morning, the crisp autumn air envelops me as I walk towards the woods of Torrita di Siena. By my side is Pierpaolo, an experienced truffle hunter who has been practicing this activity since the age of 14, along with his two loyal dogs, Spugna and Lilly. The two sisters are a unique combination, with a Lagotto father and a Jack Russell mother. With bright eyes and noses that never stop sniffing,
Spugna and Lilly are ready for their day's mission: to find the truffles hidden beneath the forest ground.
Observing Pierpaolo, Spugna, and Lilly, I immediately understand that there is a deep bond between them. Every command, every movement is a ballet of precision and affection. Pierpaolo explains to me how the dogs have been trained since they were puppies, honing an extraordinary sense of smell for truffles. It's incredible to think that beneath this carpet of leaves and moss lie true culinary treasures.
Before starting our hike, Pierpaolo explains to me the different varieties of truffles that can be found in Tuscany and their ripening seasons.
The "Tartufo Marzuolo" or Bianchetto is the first of the season.
available from January to April. It lives in symbiosis with the roots of pines and oaks, and its price can reach 500 euros per kilogram during the month of April. This truffle is appreciated for its strong aroma and versatility in the kitchen. Subsequently, we find the "Summer Black Truffle" or "Black Truffle," which grows from June to November. It also lives in symbiosis with oaks and, as Pierpaolo jokes, "even with tagliatelle."
Currently, this truffle costs about 400 euros per kilo and is known for its delicate flavor. The interesting thing is that both of these varieties of truffle can be cultivated. It's a whole different story for the prized "White Truffle," available from September to December. It lives in symbiosis with poplars, hazels, and oaks, and its value and prestige make it a highly sought-after ingredient.
We delve into the woods around Lupaia, where oaks and pines rise majestically. The atmosphere is serene, interrupted only by the sound of leaves under our steps and the rustling of the wind through the trees. Occasionally, Spugna and Lilly stop, sniff the ground, and dig with their paws. Pierpaolo watches them closely, ready to intervene at the right moment. After several attempts, here is the signal: Spugna has found something.
With delicate movements, Pierpaolo begins to dig where Spugna indicated.
And there it is, a black truffle, small but with an intense aroma
I take it in my hands, feeling the earthy and rich aroma that characterizes it. It is a magical moment, a tangible connection with nature and its wonders. Our excursion continues, alternating moments of waiting with exciting discoveries. Every truffle found is a small victory, a piece of a puzzle that tells the story of these woods.
At the end of the morning, we return to Lupaia, where a culinary surprise awaits me.
Back in the charming village, I find chef Andrea Sisti who challenges me with an extraordinary cooking class.
I started with oven-baked stuffed pumpkin flowers.
Chef Andrea Sisti showed me how to clean the flowers, fill them with ricotta, and then bake them. Next, we focused on mixed bruschetta, enriched with the unmistakable aroma of truffle, the crispy bread seasoned with extra virgin olive oil and freshly grated truffle.
The highlight of the cooking class was undoubtedly the "Pici all'Aglione".
The chef taught me how to make fresh pasta by hand, a true art. After rolling out and cutting the pasta, we cooked it and dressed it with a sauce made with Aglione, a prized variety that is difficult to find outside Val di Chiana, along with fresh tomatoes.
To conclude, we couldn't miss the cantuccini: we mixed flour with sugar and the other ingredients, forming loaves that we baked until golden.
After the first baking, we cut the loaves into slices and put them back in the oven for the second baking, achieving the "biscottatura," which is the classic crispness that makes the cantuccini perfect for dipping in vin santo.
The result of the preparation of each dish was a tribute to the Tuscan culinary tradition, enriched by the experience, passion, and touch of Chef Andrea Sisti.
Once the cooking class is finished, I sit at the table with the owners Heidi and Christopher to enjoy the fruits of our labor. Accompanied by excellent wines from their cellar, we admire the Tuscan countryside with a breathtaking view of Montepulciano.
The combination of food, wine, and landscape creates an unforgettable moment, where every flavor and every view blend together to experience a complete sensory experience.
As I return home, I realize that truffle hunting is not just about searching for a valuable ingredient; it is a journey through the history, culture, and nature of Tuscany. It is an experience that connects you to the land and its people, teaching you the value of patience and respect for the environment.
