Apulia | ITALY

The orecchiette, Puglia on a plate

I am the symbol of the cuisine of the region of two seas. And among origins and anecdotes, fashions and tastes, today I am at the center of dozens of events. Like “Orecchiette nelle ‘nchiosce” in Grottaglie, where Retrogusti will also be present.

Apulia | ITALY

The orecchiette, Puglia on a plate

I am the symbol of the cuisine of the region of two seas. And among origins and anecdotes, fashions and tastes, today I am at the center of dozens of events. Like “Orecchiette nelle ‘nchiosce” in Grottaglie, where Retrogusti will also be present.

The sun beats down on the white stones of the houses. From within, left open in vain hope that the circulation of air might offer some relief from the heat, comes the chatter of adults and children, along with household sounds of dishes and utensils. In the background is the distant song of the cicadas.

It is any summer day in any historic center of Puglia. Here, where the alleys are more about the spaces than the street names, they play a role of connection and mixture between the properties and those who inhabit them. Here, where the neighborhood is more like an extended family. Which, as such, teaches, shares, and passes down. And what topic can, more than any other, be at the center of theory and practice if not food and cooking? Starting from what is more than a typical local dish, but rather a true symbol: orecchietta. The one that today every tourist wants to learn to make with their own hands, but that requires long practice to achieve the perfect gestures made famous by the 'orecchiette women'. The one that is assembled in the historic centers on small tables placed at the entrance of homes.

Orecchiette, the dish that is so popular in Puglia on Sundays with large gatherings, ragù, and celebrations.

But where does this product come from, which appears so much in both culinary literature and cinematic comedies, from vintage Lino Banfi to the more recent Checco Zalone? Its origin is not well defined, but it is very likely of local origin in the Bari area. One theory dates back to the 12th-13th century and speaks of a fusion between local traditions, particularly the Norman-Swabian and the Jewish: the shape would be inspired by the "ears of Haman," a Jewish pastry prepared by the communities existing in many parts of Puglia. The other theory comes from France: it would have been the Angevins, in Puglia in the 13th century, who introduced this shape similar to one used at that time in Provence.

Regardless of their origin, today there are numerous events dedicated to orecchiette in the region of the two seas, with countless variations along the 400 kilometers stretching from Vieste to Santa Maria di Leuca. There is one event in particular that connects this unique shape of pasta (in various sizes) to another symbol of Puglia. That is the ceramics of Grottaglie. Here, on August 11 and 12, the 11th edition of "Orecchiette nelle ‘nchiosce" will take place, an event organized by the Le Idee non Mancano APS Association, with the sponsorship of the Municipality of Grottaglie and the Pro Loco.

Taking inspiration from the name in the local dialect (‘nchiosce) of the alleys in the historic center, the event aims to celebrate the culinary tradition of Apulia through the connection between orecchiette and the territory. To achieve this, a long food and wine journey will be organized, where it will be possible to taste 11 dishes prepared by just as many chefs along with wines from numerous local wineries that have decided to support the initiative, which will be served in ceramic glasses. There will also be shows and music as well as moments of in-depth exploration.

Retrogusti will also take part, with its own event on both evenings of the event.

Other inspirations...