Apulia | ITALY

Filip Ondrušek, a sustainable kitchen through travels, local ingredients, and culinary tradition

Between ancient cooking techniques and spices of the oasis, a journey into the heart of the Sahara to discover the Madfouna, a symbol of tradition, resilience, and biodiversity.

Apulia | ITALY

Filip Ondrušek, a sustainable kitchen through travels, local ingredients, and culinary tradition

The young chef shares his international culinary journey, his passion for sustainability, attention to local ingredients, and the connection to the territory, from Peru to Puglia.

His uniform, a few tools, and local products are all chef Filip Ondrušek needs to prepare a lunch, a dinner, or a simple tasting, whether in a renowned international restaurant, in a winery, or on a beach. 

At just 29 years old, Filip has gained extensive experience around the world, also collaborating with renowned chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, including the Central in Lima, Peru (ranked number 1 in the world in 2023 in the Best of the Best restaurant hall of fame), and every day he is ready for a new adventure to cook in Japan, the United States, Africa, or Australia.

Her simplicity is disarming, as is her constant desire to experiment using almost exclusively local and seasonal products, with a strong focus on avoiding any form of waste.

Last year, Filip expressed the desire to come to Grottaglie to experience the culinary delights of our region and discover the art of cooking food in Grottagliese ceramics. And so, overwhelmed by his energy, we organized a lesson at the hotel management institute in Pulsano, a lunch in a winery, a tasting in a pizzeria, and finally, a dinner at a well-known local restaurant.

Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn

It was precisely his love for Slow Food Presidia that drove him to research in every corner of the earth where he found himself preparing his recipes, and in particular, during his trip to Puglia, he became passionate about the citrus fruits of Gargano and the small tomatoes of Manduria, using them in various recipes during the days spent in Grottaglie and its surroundings for his Apulian experience.

With Retrogusti, he immediately shared the path that sees the curiosity and enhancement of small producers thanks to the use of some of their products, making them the protagonists of his recipes. 

Filip is never in the same place for more than a month and is always eager to work and meet new realities and new colleagues to organize tastings together, first studying the best that each territory offers in the season in which he is present. 

His sign? Even in Puglia, he brought with him the poppy seeds from the area around Vienna, his place of origin, as the only ingredient that always finds a spot in his "work bag" when he travels the world.

Filip, if you had to describe your cuisine to someone who doesn't know you, what would you suggest they try first?

I would suggest trying a homemade stew. This dish combines a variety of ingredients, each with its own flavor and texture, just like the experiences and influences that have shaped my cooking. A well-made stew is rich and hearty, often passed down from generation to generation, much like the stories and traditions I carry with me. Slow cooking symbolizes patience and care, allowing the flavors to meld perfectly. Furthermore, it reflects my appreciation for local and seasonal ingredients, as each element of the stew testifies to the connection with the land from which it comes. Whether it's fresh vegetables bought at the farmers' market or herbs picked from my garden, each ingredient tells a story and creates a bond between the cook and those who savor the dish. It’s a dish that speaks of tradition, but can be reinterpreted each time, just like cooking itself.

Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn

In which dish does your essence as a chef reside?

Once again, the answer is homemade stew. It is nourishing, comforting, and deeply rooted in tradition, just like my culinary philosophy. This dish represents warmth, harmony, and a sense of community, which are fundamental values for me both as a person and as a chef. Its slow and careful preparation reflects the way I approach cooking: with care, respect for the ingredients, and a desire to create something that goes beyond mere nourishment, becoming a shared experience. Moreover, the stew is a perfect example of how simple ingredients can transform into something extraordinary through time and attention to detail.

We could define you as a traveling chef; what drives you to always be on the move?

When I started traveling, everything felt strange and even a bit dangerous. I was often surrounded by new people and the experiences were unpredictable. However, traveling means accepting risk and stepping out of your comfort zone, something I find exhilarating. I love meeting new friends and collaborating with other food enthusiasts, people who share my passion and understand the art behind every dish. These encounters have deepened my understanding of food and local cultures, allowing me to learn directly from farmers and producers. Every interaction enriches my perspective and inspires me to create unique dishes, rooted in the territory but with a global outlook. Travel is not just a physical movement, but an opportunity to discover new stories, ingredients, and techniques that make every culinary experience unique. Through my travels, I've learned that food is a universal language, capable of creating authentic connections wherever you are.

Who is a source of inspiration for you today?

My greatest source of inspiration is local producers. Every time I meet a farmer or an artisan who dedicates their life to growing extraordinary ingredients, I feel motivated to give my best in the kitchen. They remind me how important it is to respect food and the work that goes into every product. The direct relationship with those who cultivate and produce is essential to truly understand the quality of ingredients and to create dishes that tell an authentic story. It is this connection with the land and the people who work it that makes every dish more meaningful.

Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn

The kitchen has gone through many phases over the years. Traditional cuisine, finger food, molecular cuisine. What historical moment are we in today? 

Today we find ourselves in a phase of transformation. After the excitement for molecular cuisine, many chefs are returning to their roots, focusing on local ingredients and sustainable practices. The emphasis is on seasonality and reducing waste, with a growing awareness of product origins. I believe that the present and future of cooking lie in a balance between tradition and innovation, with chefs becoming increasingly informed and aware of their food choices. It is essential for chefs to know the source of their ingredients, collaborate with producers, and understand the importance of a transparent and responsible supply chain. This approach not only enhances the quality of dishes but also fosters a more conscious and respectful culinary culture.

Filip, where do you think the kitchen will go in the future?

I believe that the future of cooking will increasingly be oriented towards sustainability and the philosophy of 'zero waste'. I don’t think that fast food represents the right direction, even though some suggest it does. I prefer to envision a quick yet nutritious kitchen, like a plate of pasta made with quality ingredients. Speed should not compromise the care and respect for food. Ultimately, the future will be about balance: healthy food, prepared with attention, that enhances the environment and the experience of sharing at the table. I strongly believe that cooking can evolve without losing its connection to the earth and to the people who make each dish possible. Moreover, I believe that there will be a growing attention towards the traceability of ingredients and the promotion of small producers, key elements for a more conscious culinary approach.

Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn
Cetriolo di Nizhyn

What does the aftertaste mean to you?

The aftertaste for me is a journey through the gastronomic culture of each territory. It means discovering authentic flavors, valuing small producers, and telling the hidden stories behind each ingredient. It is a project that celebrates curiosity and respect for food, promoting dishes that enhance the quality and uniqueness of local products. But it also represents the connection between past and future, where traditions meet new interpretations, keeping the essence of each territory alive through food. It is a way to remember that food is not only nourishment, but also culture, memory, and identity.

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