Goa is a small state on the western coast of India known for its beautiful beaches, a vibrant music scene, and numerous events centered around yoga and other holistic disciplines, making it an important tourist destination for locals and travelers from all over the world. However, beyond this, Goa has a rich cultural identity that is probably less known to most.
It is a warm day at the beginning of spring when I walk through the streets of the coastal capital of Goa called Panjim (or Panaji) and, after a year spent traveling in Southeast Asia, for the first time, I have the impression of being back in a European capital. The old district of the city, known as Fontainhas, reflects the Portuguese heritage with its cobbled streets, brightly colored houses, classical mosaics, and Portuguese writings that can be admired in other cities of Portugal. It is indeed also due to the presence of Portuguese colonists that Goa has a demographic constitution very different from other Indian states, characterized by the significant Christian community present alongside the Hindu one. The differences are especially reflected in Goa's culinary identity, whose traditional dishes and cooking techniques are unique as they represent the fusion of the traditions of two geographically distant worlds. Probably the most characteristic example is given by the classic Goan pastry.
The confectionery that embodies its characteristics is the typical pastry shop of Panjim called "Mr Baker 1922", a family business for four generations.
Receiving me are Mrs. Nenette and her son Nathan, who manage the store and the production workshop, respectively. I again feel that sensation of being in a place and time different from India, this time due to the retro decor of the candy shop, with displays showcasing all the typical sweets, fresh for the day. Nenette greets me with a big smile and a glass of juice made from their own fruit. Here in Goa, it is the cashew harvest season, and the fruit from the trees is used to produce the drink known as Niro and also a famous distillate called Feni, both characterized by a strong fermented flavor.
Sitting at the table, Nanette begins to tell me the story of the founder of the family business, her grandfather Pedro Vicent Vaz. Pedro started working on cruise ships and was assigned to the bakery and pastry section, where he first learned the recipes and techniques for making sweets. Following this experience, he began a trading business as an importer of classic Portuguese pastry ingredients that were less known in India, such as refined flour and sugar, margarine, cinnamon, and condensed milk. Pedro's business became so prosperous that all the bakeries in the capital and nearby villages purchased his products.
The first bakery was opened by Pedro in a village named Moira, where he imported the first bread slicing machine in the whole country.
Following the success of the bakery, known especially for the production of bread and dry pastries, Nanette's father opened “Mr Baker 1922” in Panjim in honor of his father Pedro.
For the first time, not only bread but also the typical sweets of Goa became the protagonists of the Vaz family's business, this time thanks to the work of Mrs. Delia, Nenette's mother. It is Nenette herself who tells me about Delia's great devotion to her work, who in the morning prepared all the sweets in their family home, and then took care of the sales in the bakery. Nenette's childhood stories all feature the production of typical Goan sweets by Delia, and the workload of the confectionery was so great that their family home, which also served as a production workshop, grew to accommodate 14 family members and 23 workers, a true success! The family business became such an integral part of Nenette's life that, after the sudden passing of her mother Delia, she left her job to fully dedicate herself to “Mr Baker 1922”.
Among the many sweets displayed in the shop, I ask Nenette and her son Nathan to tell me about two cakes that embody the emblem of the traditional sweets of Goa: Bebinca cake and Batica. These are two creations that clearly reflect European influence, not only because of the presence of ingredients such as refined sugar and eggs - which are not present in the tradition of Indian pastry - but also because of their preparation method: it was indeed the Portuguese who introduced the baking of sweets in the oven, which is also absent in Indian cuisine.
Bebinca is a very rich traditional dessert that requires a long preparation, a cake reserved for weddings or birthdays.
The ingredients used are sugar, flour, egg yolks, and fresh coconut milk (the latter being one of the fundamental ingredients of this area of India). Typically, Bebinca is prepared in a wood-fired oven, starting with the cooking of the first layer for about 20 minutes, after which the second layer is added, cooked for another 20 minutes, and so on until all layers are assembled. This process and the presence of these ingredients give the dessert a texture and flavor unlike any other cake, very rich and dense on the palate.
The Batica cake is different, a dish also used daily to accompany tea or other hot beverages. A cake that looks decidedly more like the classic homemade ones, but with different ingredients that once again reflect the fusion between European and Indian traditions: in this case, it includes semolina, eggs, and freshly grated local coconut. These are comforting and generous sweets, much like the encounter with Nenette and Nathan, who I see welcoming customer after customer with a big smile and the desire to share their family story through the identity of each typical Goan sweet and their warm hospitality. Despite the success of their business, they have indeed decided to sell their sweets at a price that is accessible not only to the many tourists who visit "Mr Baker 1922", but also and above all to local customers, in order to encourage them to return, perhaps a bit with the same spirit as when Mom Delia baked sweets for the large family in the house where Nenette was born and raised.
And the memory I hold closest to me, no matter where in India, in which country, with which people, regardless of religion, tradition, or social group, is that of always receiving the warmest welcome. And every difference adds a nuance that enriches this country of a thousand colors and a single soul.
