Bali is a wonderful island in Indonesia where the air is scented with incense and fresh flowers,
where religious offerings keep the homes and temples alive, and where the breathtaking sunsets and the smiles of the people remind you every day of how much beauty exists around you.
An island with many faces, the authenticity of Bali still tied to the traditions of the past, more evident in the small rural villages, to the parts of the island conquered by mass tourism.
I find the same reality during my search for a story about chocolate production: many anonymous tourist attractions and fewer opportunities to find an authentic story to give a face to. To my surprise, giving a face to this story is Giuseppe Verdacchi, originally from Italy and having moved to Bali about thirty years ago to pursue a career as an architect and designer, and then dedicating himself to chocolate production.
After about an hour of riding a scooter, I am warmly welcomed by Giuseppe at Primo Chocolab, along with his son Gusdè Verdacchi, who is also a key player in managing the family business. Joining us is also Cronos, the family's big gentle dog.
Sitting in front of the chocolate lab and his own home, Giuseppe begins to tell me his story.
The cultivation of cocoa was introduced in Bali in the mid-1980s.
when the local government had seven thousand hectares of cocoa trees planted as an additional resource for local farmers. All this without really explaining to the local growers how to manage this new crop, so for several years, the potential of the plantations was reduced to the use of the by-product of cocoa butter to meet the demand of the cosmetic industry.
In this climate, Primo was born not only from the idea of working with the resources provided by the cocoa plantations on the island, but especially from the motivation for social change: to create a network of collaboration between farmers and chocolate processing experts for the production of high-quality chocolate, thereby motivating young Balinese people to stay in their respective hometowns.
Over the years, there have been many challenges that the company has had to face, such as the lack of support from local administration, or the absence of adequate tools for chocolate processing. Nevertheless, the human relationships created over time and the study of local resources have allowed the success of this project between tradition and innovation.
During our visit to the Primo Chocolab laboratory, Giuseppe shows me step by step
the chocolate processing stages
Fermented cacao beans come from carefully selected organic cacao plantations in Bali and other regions of Indonesia; the relationship of trust and friendship between farmer and producer is the foundation of the entire process, as Giuseppe emphasizes. Once the beans are sorted by size, they are roasted in a convection oven designed by Giuseppe himself: the first of its kind on the entire island and beyond, necessary to ensure a slow and even cooking at low temperatures. After the cooling phase, the cacao beans are crushed in such a way as to obtain and then separate the cacao nibs from the shell; one of the machines used in this process was created through collaboration with a scooter mechanic from the village because, as Giuseppe says, once that spark is present in people's eyes, you understand that something can be created together.
The most surprising revelation comes with the next phase of grinding cocoa nibs, also carried out by a tool designed with the help of a local engineer, inspired by the production of olive oil. The Verdacchi family has been producing olive oil in Italy for several generations, and as Giuseppe and Gusdè explain to me, there are several common aspects in the processing of these two different products. Through a slow and continuous stone grinding process (from sixty to eighty hours per load), the fruits develop a more complete aromatic profile; this is the decisive phase for refining the product which, after this step, will be less acidic and more delicate on the palate, achieving that pleasant aftertaste that characterizes quality chocolate.
Finally, the chocolate is tempered and any flavors and ingredients are added before the final packaging phase.
I remember with a smile the morning spent at Primo's headquarters.
Our conversation began with the impact that the loss of traditional shops has had on society, and the ensuing barbaric advent of superficiality, as described by Giuseppe. The same effect can be seen in the chocolate industry, often more focused on satisfying the immediate gratification of the consumer rather than aiming for product excellence.
Primo's chocolate, on the other hand, intends to offer a taste experience behind which lies the enthusiasm for continuous research and experimentation, and the desire to prioritize the quality of this product while respecting the collaboration and support of local resources.
Primo is a story of authenticity and great personality among many realities of superficiality and social consumerism, as can be seen in the face of Giuseppe and in the taste of his chocolate.
