Basilicata | ITALY

Mastrodomenico vineyards, where viticulture is stronger even than wildfires.

In Rapolla, on Mount Vulture, Emanuela and her father cultivate the memory of the volcano and its wines. And of a land still to be discovered. Amid the sharing with the philosophy of FIVI and the flames of 2023 that could have represented the end of everything but instead marked a new beginning.

Basilicata | ITALY

Mastrodomenico vineyards, where viticulture is stronger even than wildfires.

In Rapolla, on Mount Vulture, Emanuela and her father cultivate the memory of the volcano and its wines. And of a land still to be discovered. Amid the sharing with the philosophy of FIVI and the flames of 2023 that could have represented the end of everything but instead marked a new beginning.

Among the gentle curves of Monte Vulture, where the black soil retains the warmth of the sun and the wind traces ancient trajectories between the rows of vines, Basilicata tells a story different from that of the more famous volcanoes. Here, there is no clamor of lofty names, but the slow and profound pace of those who cultivate memory. It is in this suspended landscape, in Rapolla in the Acquarossa district, that the story of Emanuela Mastrodomenico and her business, Vigne Mastrodomenico, takes shape, a wine-making reality associated with FIVI, the Italian Federation of Independent Winegrowers.

The Vulture is not just a name, it is a breath.

It is the heart of the wine region of the Sassi and calanchi, but even today it remains a land to discover, often overshadowed by more told territories. Emanuela knows this well: her work is not just about making wine, but restoring identity to a place that risks "losing itself in the maze" if it is not named precisely. Rapolla. Acquarossa. Coordinates that become storytelling, belonging, vision. The vineyards are organic, rooted in a difficult yet generous soil.

Here, care is not an isolated gesture, but an agricultural and cultural presence. There are no slogans created at a drawing board: there is a narrative that starts from the land, from the vineyard, from the daily gesture. There are no one-off operations. The enhancement of Vulture, for Emanuela, comes from stewardship. From old vines that are not uprooted but brought back to life. From the choice to restart historical roots instead of replacing them with quicker solutions. It is a form of silent resistance, almost political: regenerating the wine heritage means protecting the territory, its economy, and its memory. A daily job that is worth more than any promotional campaign.

The story of Vigne Mastrodomenico begins in the 1970s, when Emanuela's father – a Puglian agronomist – transforms six hectares of arable land into a vineyard. A technical choice, certainly. But also a visionary act. Selected cuttings, one by one. Rows designed by studying the winds, avoiding any counter-exposure. A harmonic planting, which today still proves relevant. Emanuela, on the other hand, had taken a different path. Law studies, a doctorate in Turin, the idea of becoming a magistrate. Then the return. Not imposed, but chosen. The return to the land, to the family, to the project. To sales, to marketing, to the storytelling of wine. With her brother, with her father, and today with her husband who fully enters the project. At first, they sold grapes. Aglianico del Vulture, in quantity. Then the transition to their own winemaking, the birth of the brand, the construction of an identity. The vineyard remains the center. It is there that everything is born. It is from there that the wine takes shape.

Joining the FIVI was not a strategy, but a natural conclusion.

A shared purpose with other independent winemakers who share the same vision: to protect the land starting from the earth. Today's choices for a tomorrow full of uncertainties. At this excellent meeting, Eleonora presented her testimony at the last National Assembly of FIVI Winemakers, which took place last November at the Wine Market in Bologna, an important moment for members to share and discuss problems, successes, ideas, and projects. Producers from all over Italy find in the Association a fertile network of individuals with the same philosophy, but with different territories and situations to act in. Exchange and mutual support thus become precious and irreplaceable commodities, starting from the regional Delegations.

"Today's wine - Emanuela recounts - cannot be a product of trends. It must be the child of the grape. Climate change has altered the balances of Aglianico: higher degrees, different acidity, new agronomic challenges. It requires expertise, study, and adaptability." For this reason, the philosophy evolves towards a precise direction: working in subtraction. Removing the superfluous, allowing the soul of the wine to emerge. Innovate, yes, but only when it makes sense. Even amphorae, if needed. Otherwise, no. "With both feet on the ground - Emanuela emphasizes - always."

Then comes 2023. After difficult years of pandemic and downy mildew, the fire.

A fire, fueled by drought and still common agricultural practices such as burning stubble, hits the farm. A traumatic, sudden event that puts everything at risk. The reaction is immediate. With humility, Emanuela launches a crowdfunding campaign. The response is broad and supportive. It is a sign that wine, when it's genuine, creates community. From that moment, a new awareness is born. Civic, agricultural, cultural. The necessity of thoughtful viticulture. Of a real protection of the landscape. Of a national law that prohibits the summer burning of stubble, especially near vineyards and olive groves. As if that weren't enough, an administrative battle also arises. A revocation procedure linked to the Rural Development Program, initiated despite the force majeure communication. The farm appeals, and the judge rules in its favor. Another test of resilience. Another demonstration that doing agriculture today also means being vigilant, knowing the laws, and defending one's work.

But those who arrive in Rapolla do not find a constructed experience. They find a story.

Walk among the rows, the scars left by fire, the vines that come back to life. A direct, simple, authentic contact. Wine becomes a gateway to something greater: culture, peasant civilization, the memory of the place. An experience that is not a spectacle, but a relationship.

The new vintage, 2025, will be the first after the fire. A different wine. A wine of heart and soul. It will also mark a new family phase, with new balances and a renewed creative energy. It will be the liquid story of what has happened, of resilience, of change. And perhaps it will be the right moment to return here, with a glass in hand, and resume that conversation left hanging. Because some stories need time to be understood. And others, like this one, need to be sipped.

Subscribe to the Retrogusti Newsletter

Short, intense, and surprising stories about food and wine that evoke emotions. Preview articles, events, itineraries, and experiences.

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Subscribe to the Retrogusti Newsletter

Short, intense, and surprising stories about food and wine that evoke emotions. Preview articles, events, itineraries, and experiences.

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Subscribe to the Retrogusti Newsletter

Short, intense, and surprising stories about food and wine that evoke emotions. Preview articles, events, itineraries, and experiences.

Subscribe to the Newsletter