ITALY

FIVI, the authentic face of Italian wine

What does it mean to be a winemaker today: the vision of Rita Babini, national president of the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers, who shares her story with Retrogusti

ITALY

FIVI, the authentic face of Italian wine

What does it mean to be a winemaker today: the vision of Rita Babini, national president of the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers, who shares her story with Retrogusti

Being a winemaker today is an act of responsibility. Not only towards one's own vineyard but towards a community in Italy that counts over 1,800 members, spread from north to south, united by a common philosophy: making wine with passion, from the grape to the bottle. This is the spirit of the Italian Federation of Independent Winegrowers (FIVI), founded in 2008 to give a voice to those who live from the land every day and whose work and identity are centered around it.

“The FIVI winemaker – explains President Rita Babini, whom Retrogusti met at the annual FIVI Wine Market held in Bologna – is the one who designs the vineyard, cultivates it, vinifies his own grapes and bottles under his own name. He does not produce on behalf of third parties but builds a vertical, transparent chain where every step tells the deep connection between the people who work and the land that hosts them.” A simple and powerful definition that returns wine to its artisanal dimension, made of hands, choices, and time.

FIVI is not just an acronym: it is a cultural movement.

It stems from the desire to protect an ancient trade, often crushed between bureaucracy, market logic, and industrial models. "When it was founded – recalls the president – there was no voice dedicated to short supply chain winemakers. Today we are recognized by the Ministry and participate in institutional discussions, providing a concrete contribution based on our uniqueness."

Alongside the national commitment, the Federation engages with Europe as a member of the European Confederation of Independent Winemakers, which brings together 14 countries. Here, regulations, sustainability, and, above all, policies capable of protecting the craftsmanship of wine are discussed. "Europe seems far away – emphasizes Babini – but its decisions impact the daily lives of producers: from incentives to investments, to the rules on OCM. It is essential to be there to defend our reality of small agricultural enterprises."

The FIVI is also a mosaic of territorial delegations, created spontaneously based on the needs of the members. In Emilia-Romagna, for example, there are three delegations – Piacenza, Modena-Reggio Emilia, and Romagna – while in Puglia and Campania work is being done on a regional scale. Connecting with the public are the “points of affection”, over 400 between wine shops and restaurants that choose to showcase FIVI wines in their lists and menus.

One of the most anticipated moments of the year is the "Winemaker's Saturday," a widespread event that, starting in 2026, will become "The Month of the Winemaker," according to the president who reveals it in advance: thirty days of meetings, tastings, and stories throughout Italy.

We decided to extend it – he explains – to allow each delegation to choose the best date, avoiding overlaps and enhancing the response from the area.

In this vibrant network, made of people before companies, the deepest mission of FIVI is expressed: to build awareness. “Many consumers do not really understand what it means to be an independent winemaker. That’s why events and public meetings are essential: they help to distinguish those who work their land from those who merely bottle or do marketing.”

On the market front, the president does not hide the current difficulties. "We are going through a perfect storm: wars, tariffs, transport crises, declining purchasing power, and new alcohol regulations. All of this weighs on those who rely on agriculture." Yet the winemaker remains true to his rhythm, to the time of nature. "We cannot change grape varieties because they are in fashion, nor reduce the alcohol content to chase a trend. Our job is to accompany the maturation of the grapes, not to command it."

On the subject of dealcoholized wines, FIVI's position is clear: yes to the freedom to produce them, no to the use of appellations.

"The process is so invasive that it distorts the connection with the grape variety and territory. It is right for the market to evolve, but tradition and identity must be protected."

Finally, a call for total sustainability, not only environmental but also economic and social. "Every hectoliter of wine produced by an independent winemaker employs more people and takes more time compared to an industry. It is a way of doing business that supports local areas, preserves the landscape, and conveys culture."

Ultimately, behind every bottle with the FIVI logo lies a story of land, family, and future. A world that does not seek quantity, but truth. And that continues, harvest after harvest, to defend the most precious value of wine: its humanity.

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