I usually don't write about wineries. Telling stories about wines and territories, with expertise and sensitivity, is the job of our expert contributors or Angelo and Filippo, sommeliers of certain prestige. But this time it's different. This time the journey starts from a personal curiosity, from a recommended bottle, from that thin thread that connects tasting to the desire to understand who is behind a product.
The spirit of Retrogusti, after all, is all here: to spark the desire for 'knowledge.'
Understanding not just as reading or watching, but truly going to the producers, meeting them, listening to them, understanding their world, experiencing their products. You don't have to be a critic or a technician to do this, but rather curious explorers of tastes and passions, this is our compass.
It was Filippo himself who suggested Suavia to me, among the many labels that I occasionally ask him to recommend so that I can discover – without boundaries – new wines. I was familiar with the Soave denomination, having lived and worked for many years between Verona, Vicenza, and Padua. But I didn't know Suavia. I tasted their Monte Carbonare. And it impressed me. Then I discovered the Trebbiano di Soave with Massifitti. And curiosity took over.
I started by getting information from their website and, finding myself in the area, I decided to go up to Fittà, a hamlet of Soave, to meet them in person. Not to conduct an interview, not to draft a profile, but simply to develop that discovery path that is, indeed, the very spirit of Retrogusti.
The cellar presents itself as a tidy house, with large windows that illuminate the tasting room. The production and storage develop vertically, almost entirely underground, in an atmosphere of silent concreteness.
Welcoming us is Alessandra, one of the three Tessari sisters who run the company.
With her, we spoke simply, listening to their story, that of Soave and the rediscovery of Trebbiano di Soave. Soave, she told us, has not always been an easy wine. In the '50s and '60s, it was one of the most well-known and appreciated Italian whites, a symbol of the Italian Dolce Vita that was popular abroad. She reminded us of the scene where, right at the beginning of the namesake film by Federico Fellini, Soave is mentioned among the wines consumed by the guests at a party, a clear signal of prestige and style in an era when this wine embodied the lightness and elegance of a growing Italy.
Then, as often happens, success led to mass production and a loss of identity, with anonymous, standardized bottles that compromised the reputation of Soave.
Today, realities like Suavia work to bring Soave back to its true nature: a wine of the territory, linked to a volcanic soil, made of subtle and authentic differences.
The tasting confirmed this idea: wines that reflect the territory and its complexity. Monte Carbonare, 100% garganega grapes, is a clean and fresh white, coming from a strongly volcanic soil that imparts a sulfury and mineral touch that lingers in your mouth.
The Massifitti, a pure Trebbiano from Soave, a return to a variety often forgotten, but here valued with respect, is softer but with a nice freshness and a finish that surprises you. Then there’s Le Rive, for me a pleasant discovery, a late harvest also of garganega, that tastes of ripe fruit and spices, dense but without heaviness, perfect with strong cheeses.
There are visits that entertain you, and visits that broaden your perspectives. Suavia is part of the second category.
No glossy storytelling, no wine tourism performances. Here, it's straight talk, with the voice of the vineyards, the history, and the choices made. The Tessari sisters are consistent and radical, but without fanfare. For those who really want to understand what is behind a wine, this is a must-visit. It's the kind of experience that Retrogusti seeks and supports: where every step into a winery becomes a step forward in Italian food and wine culture.
