In Italy, when we talk about “sake,” we mostly think of that alcoholic beverage made from rice that is commonly found in Asian cuisine restaurants. Some appreciate its taste, while others simply order it because they want to accompany their culinary experience with an unusual flavor. Adding to the “exotic” aspect is often the fact that sake is sometimes served warm, a custom quite far from our habit of consuming alcoholic beverages at cooler temperatures.
Many know that the word “sake” is Japanese, but it is not always clear whether the bottle offered at the restaurant truly comes from Japan or from other countries. Fermented rice beverages are indeed produced in various regions of Asia, and even in some Western countries. It is still very rare for restaurant menus to specify the exact name of the beverage that will be served: mostly, it is generically written as “sake” without any specifications.
A Japanese person might rightly be surprised reading this entry on a menu. In Japanese, in fact, “sake” does not refer only to rice alcohol: “sake” generally means “alcohol” in all its forms. Practically, for a Japanese person, beer, wine, or any other alcoholic beverage is always “sake.” What would we think if, in a Western restaurant in Asia, instead of an appropriate wine list with names and characteristics of various bottles, we found a single and generic label “alcohol” to mean an unspecified red wine?
In Japanese, the word "sake" is written with the character 酒 made up of two components: 氷 (the simplified version of the ideogram for water, 水) and 酉 (an ideogram representing a vessel that was historically used in China for preparing and storing alcoholic beverages). The combination of these two elements forms the ideogram 酒, which refers to the concept of fermented liquid in a specific vessel.
While the character 酒 is shared by all languages that use Chinese ideographic writing, the word "sakè" for reading this character is specific to the Japanese language. There are various theories about the origin of this word. According to the most common explanation, "sakè" derives from the verb "sakaeru" (栄える), which means "to flourish/prosper," in reference to the pleasant sensations induced by alcohol. Another theory traces it back to the verb "sakeru" (避ける), meaning "to avoid": it was once believed that drinking alcohol served to prevent diseases and ward off evil spirits, including negative thoughts and feelings.
When we talk about “sake” in Japan, we refer to a wide range of beverages: fruit-based liquors, such as the delicious “umeshu,” which literally means “alcohol” (shu, another way to read the character 酒) of “Japanese plum” (ume, 梅); distilled spirits made from barley, sweet potatoes, or rice, which fall into the category of “shōchū” (焼酎, literally “strong distilled alcohol”); well-known beers and world-famous whiskies. Among all these drinks, there is one that particularly stands out in the world of Japanese “sake”: nihonshu (日本酒), or “the alcohol (shu, 酒) of Japan (nihon, 日本).” It is precisely nihonshu that corresponds to what is often called “sake” in the West and that, in a sense, represents the quintessential “Japanese sake.”
Classifying nihonshu is not simple. With an alcohol content of about 15-16 degrees, it is produced through fermentation, but its production process cannot be entirely attributed to either wine or beer, placing it in an intermediate category. The result is a beverage with a unique flavor that stands out from the more common fermented alcoholic drinks we are used to.
The history of nihonshu is very ancient, dating back at least to the beginning of the Yayoi Period (around the 5th century BC), when rice cultivation spread across the Japanese islands. The earliest production techniques involved chewing the rice: the salivary enzyme amylase transforms starch into sugar which then, combined with natural yeasts, initiates fermentation.
Since the Heian Period (794-1185), this method was gradually replaced by the use of koji, a filamentous fungus used in the fermentation of grains such as rice and soybeans. Thus, the process of multiple parallel fermentation was established, in which the transformation of starch into sugar and the fermentation of sugars occur simultaneously in the same container. This distinguishes the production process of nihonshu from that of beer, where these two phases occur at different times. Usually, pasteurization follows at a temperature of 60-65°C, which allows for the sterilization of the liquid while simultaneously inactivating any enzymes to better preserve it.
In the production of nihonshu, the choice of rice, the quality of the water, the type of container, the timing and methods of fermentation and bottling greatly influence the final product, contributing to a galaxy of flavors, aromas, and varied aftertastes.
Once, nihonshu was reserved for religious ceremonies and the political and intellectual elite, but already during the Kamakura period (1185-1333), the drink began to spread on a large scale. Thousands of producers emerged throughout Japan, each dedicated to perfecting their own variant, giving rise to an incredibly rich alcoholic culture.
As in many cultures, in Japan as well, alcohol was considered a means to draw closer to the divine dimension and to ward off evil spirits. Also, due to its being based on rice, a staple of Japanese agriculture, nihonshu emerged at the center of the country's alcoholic tradition.
Since ancient times, it has been customary to offer nihonshu to the deities to ensure a good harvest and protection. Similarly, nihonshu was consumed on particularly important occasions, such as New Year's Day. Often, in epic tales and Japanese oral tradition, nihonshu was greatly celebrated as a precious resource that allowed heroes to defeat monsters and enemies.
Thanks to its ability to uplift spirits and mitigate conflicts, nihonshu gradually established itself as the “beverage of bonds and reconciliation.” Since the periods of wars and struggles among the various clans that mark ancient and medieval Japanese history, agreements and alliances were ratified by drinking it together. Even today, in Japan, sipping nihonshu together is a ritual that seals friendships, business negotiations, and even marital unions.
Nihonshu has always been enjoyed both cold and hot, depending on preferences or the seasons: to this day, in the colder months it tends to be served hot, while in summer it is more common to drink it cold. The pairing with food has traditionally accompanied the culture of nihonshu. Savory snacks, miso, and various seafood dishes were already popular in ancient times. In the medieval period, the so-called “shiki sankon” (式三献) or “ritual of the three courses” took shape, in which three rounds of nihonshu were accompanied by three specific meals aimed at enhancing the drink's flavor and creating harmony of tastes. Initially, these dishes were primarily based on seafood ingredients: abalone, chestnuts, jellyfish, pickled plums, and similar items as the first course, followed by two subsequent dishes featuring exquisite fish. The second course was typically sashimi, while the third involved fish prepared in a special way.
During the Muromachi period (1336-1573), thanks to the influence of Zen Buddhism and the expansion of trade, Japanese cuisine became even more diverse. Swans, geese, pheasants, and rabbits were introduced, while new types of fish, including shrimp, sea bream, and cod, further enriched the pairing possibilities with nihonshu, making the gastronomic experience even more complex and rich in nuances.
In an increasingly globalized world, Japanese cuisine embraces new traditions and flavors, while the production of nihonshu evolves and perfects itself. This scenario offers increasingly interesting opportunities: to experiment with original pairings that combine innovative recipes or those from different origins with the vast and dynamic landscape of rice alcohol.
In Tokyo, in the Kitaotsuka district, there has been a special place dedicated to this mission for thirty years: the Kushikoma. On the shop window, a sign in Japanese – which in Italian sounds like “How good is nihonshu!” – perfectly expresses its spirit.
Founded by Tadashi Obayashi in 1980, at first the Kushikoma was one of the many “izakaya” – places where alcoholic drinks and food are served with seating, unlike “tachinomiya,” where people drink standing – specializing in fried skewers and meat sashimi. Over time, however, Tadashi and his wife Yukie decided to further explore the world of nihonshu, experimenting with new combinations between rice alcohol and the dishes offered.
In the 1990s, the Obayashi couple engaged in intense research: they traveled across Japan in search of large and small producers, discovering special products to offer customers and passionately telling their stories and characteristics. This dedication quickly attracted a core group of enthusiasts, turning Kushikoma into a gathering place for nihonshu lovers.
By the late 1990s, the persistence of the Obayashi led them to stumble upon an exceptional and then-little-known nihonshu: Juyondai, served unpasteurized. Tadashi was so impressed that he decided to install a special professional refrigerator – a piece of equipment at the time used only by the producing companies themselves – to preserve it better and offer it regularly to his customers. It was a pioneering choice that made Kushikoma the first izakaya in Tokyo to continuously serve unpasteurized nihonshu. The fame of this discovery grew rapidly, and Juyondai was voted one of the best nihonshu in Japan. From that moment on, both unpasteurized nihonshu and Kushikoma gained increasing prestige: the venue became a true “temple of nihonshu,” a favorite destination for experts and enthusiasts seeking new flavors that were destined to gain attention on the national scene.
Even today, despite the passing of Mr. Tadashi, Kushikoma continues to amaze with ever-new flavors. Mrs. Yukie carries on her husband’s passion, introducing unique versions of nihonshu, pairing them with exquisite and delicious dishes, and providing detailed and enthusiastic explanations to her patrons. Who knows what other gems will be revealed in the future in Tokyo, thanks to the tireless work of Kushikoma? And so, all that’s left to do is to visit Mrs. Obayashi, raise the little cups in which nihonshu unleashes all its charm with friends, and toast with the resounding Japanese phrase: “kampai!”.
