Every time one hears about 'impossible loves' at the table, how can one not think of the pairing of artichoke and wine? Perhaps, like in life, a compromise and a meeting point can be found. The Violet Artichoke of San Luca is a variety that used to be appreciated throughout the Region, which finds its place in the world on the gentle hills south of Bologna. The clayey soils of that part of the hills give our violet artichoke a fresh flavor with notes reminiscent of licorice root. A varietal ecotype reproduced asexually that seems to be linked to the Violet variety of Tuscany. The prized part is the flower buds that are harvested between mid-May and mid-June. The flower bud has no thorns, has a deep purple color with slight green veins, while the sizes roughly range from 10 cm for the largest buds to 5 cm for the smallest. It has a slightly elongated shape with a yellow heart that tends towards violet at the tips when it is more mature.
"The Violet Artichoke of San Luca is harvested during the early hours of morning light"
It is crunchy and fragrant, at full maturity it has the appearance of a rose bud, but the best time to harvest it is when the flower head is compact and closed at the tip. To maintain the characteristics of tenderness and sweetness, the Violet artichoke from San Luca is harvested within the first hours of morning light. This is because, after the coolness of the night, it has the maximum hydration.
Little remains of the artichoke fields that once occupied the slopes of the hills around Bologna. The San Luca artichoke owes its survival to the extraordinary work of small producers within the Slow Food network, through the establishment of a Presidio that protects and enhances this particular type of artichoke, restoring it to the local community. The recovery project for the San Luca artichoke started with the determination of a group of young farmers, made possible also through the support of the older farmers in the area, who have passed down the knowledge related to its cultivation.
Within the Parco dei Gessi bolognesi and the Abbadessa's gullies, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2023, I went to meet in person the guys from Podere Castel de’ Britti: Andrea, Cristian, and Alessandro, who allowed me to see up close these fascinating artichoke plants and to delve into the agricultural and historical aspects on site.
How did I enhance it in the kitchen? Although it is often suggested to eat it raw, or to boil it and then dress it with oil, in order to appreciate its very particular sweetness, I preferred to 'transform' it into a healthy and vegetarian lasagna. And I didn't have the expectation of an enveloping 'love' with the wine, but we came very close.
"The name Pignoletto recalls the shape of a small pine cone"
The connection to the territory is always a priority, and I couldn't help but think of a pairing with what is the 'prince' grape of the Bolognese hills: the Pignoletto, an autochthonous white-skinned Emilia grape, considered extremely symbolic at the local level. The origin of the term 'Pignoletto' seems to be traced back to the characteristic shape of the bunch, which is conical, cylindrical, and short with very compact elliptical berries, resembling the shape of a small pine cone. The ripening of the bunches is generally medium, tending to be late.
The wines produced from Pignoletto grapes are recognized for their intense straw-yellow color, and the aromas of this grape express themselves in fresh and lively notes, pleasantly floral and fruity, particularly citrus. The soul of this wine indeed reflects the Emilian way of life, foremost the passion for good living and enjoying life.
Paired with my lasagna, I immediately thought of a delightful 'Monte Freddo' from the Corte d'Aibo winery, a biologically grown Pignoletto cultivated at an altitude of 200 meters near Bologna, which expressed itself at its best, highlighting the potential of the grape variety. In 'Monte Freddo', the clear notes of white flowers and the delicate hints of citrus, along with a fresh and elegant structure, allowed me to satisfy my palate curiosity and more.
Openness and 'sometimes' taking risks pay off, in life paths and sensory ones.
