There is no need to worry, nothing strange. (Almost) everyone tends to associate Tuscany's culinary delights with two of its most recognized symbols: Sangiovese wine and Chianina meat. A glass of Chianti or Brunello, accompanied by a nice plate of Florentine steak, represents a sure source of magnetic attraction for all those who, despite vegetarian or vegan preferences, sit at the table of a Tuscan trattoria. However, the region's tradition of taste has always expressed many other culinary wonders that, unfortunately, risk being almost forgotten today or, worse, erased due to a sort of "sacrifice" of ancient biodiversities on the altar of the "certainties" of modernity.
"The Foglia Tonda grape variety is called that for the circular shape of its leaf, making it look like a frying pan."
Speaking of wine, the Foglia Tonda grape variety (named for the circular shape of its "leaf", which makes it look like a frying pan) represents a very interesting example of an ancient Tuscan black grape: widely spread in the southern part of the region, it was abandoned about a century ago when its vigor produced so much (too much) fruit for the poor farmers of the time, irreparably compromising its quality. Despite the modern vineyard management practice of reducing clusters, today's numbers are clear: its cultivation in all Tuscan provinces does not exceed (indeed) 30 hectares. This “heroic” parcel of land is the result of a recovery effort that began in the early 2000s, thanks mainly to a few women winemakers who, stubbornly investing in the cultivation of this grape variety, have produced excellent quality wines.
In times when wine is discussed as a product made "in a laboratory" with tricks from a small chemist, the invitation is to spend a day getting lost among the villages of the much "intimate" yet little-known Wine Road of the Pisa Hills. It is here, more precisely in Terricciola, that one of the most interesting wines made from Foglia Tonda grapes is produced, the IGT Murioni by Marina Romin, a courageous owner of a winery that since 2019 has decided to focus exclusively on native Tuscan grapes. The 2021 version, like all wines made from this grape variety, stands out for its bright dark red color; on the nose, it immediately displays a pleasant intensity, both fruity and floral, alternating notes of small black forest fruits, blackberry, and dried plums with hints of withered violet. The palate is full, refreshing, yet at the same time robust. Its dense but elegant tannic structure makes it a perfect wine for aging and for a "territorial" pairing with a dish based on Mucco Pisano meat.
"Mucco Pisano, a particular breed of cattle from which one of the best meats in the Tuscany region has been obtained since the early 1800s"
Yes, because just a few kilometers from Terricciola, in that strip of land where the green hills of Pisa fade into the rocks of the Apuan Alps, there are still today the farms of another "lost" excellence of the Tuscan territory: the Mucco Pisano, a particular breed of cattle that has been providing one of the best meats in the region since the early 1800s. Of medium size, it derives from the crossbreeding of a local Podolic breed with Swiss Brown Alpine cattle, imported by the Lorena in the second half of the 1700s. The development of this breed has been favored by its great working abilities and the quality of its meat, but while in the 1920s there were about 20,000 cattle in the Pisa area, today there are only 260, spread across as many as 21 different farms. One of these belongs to the Fattoria di Monti, which has 124 cattle and no barn: the animals are indeed allowed to graze freely in areas that provide natural shelters and are fed with hay and grains produced by the farm itself. Due to the challenges of ensuring such breeding conditions, the Mucco Pisano has been a breed at risk for years: the reasons for the ongoing crisis lie not only in the decline of its "working" function but also in the strategic choice of breeders to produce meat from other breeds (the Maremmana or Chianina), which have a more established market and are certainly much more profitable.
Gastronomically speaking, the meat from Mucco Pisano, like all "working" breeds, is tougher than others (and the esteemed Chianina is no exception in this regard): however, a well-executed aging process for a long enough period grants it tenderness and versatility in the kitchen. To best appreciate it, it is recommended to try it cooked in one of the many dishes of the local culinary tradition (for example, tagliata, stew, or even ravioli stuffed with its meat) accompanied, it is worth noting, by a glass of Foglia Tonda which perfectly balances its pronounced succulence.
