Apulia is a wine-producing region with a rich history. Here, with the advent of Magna Graecia, the first vines arrived from the Aegean Sea. In the last two centuries, the primitivo, negroamaro, and nero di Troia grape varieties have flourished, capable of producing red wines with great power, color, and structure that for decades were sold in bulk to "fortify" the productions of northern Italy and even France, but that in the last 50 years have been the foundation for the emergence of prestigious labels. Shortly after, there was an explosion of rosé wines, another hallmark of the region.
But the most common mistake one can make is to identify an enological area with one or at most two types, because very often every corner of Italy hides gems waiting to be discovered. And Puglia is no exception to this rule. For this reason, we want to share five labels recently tasted that, while representing rapidly growing categories, deserve to be highlighted. These consist of two classic method sparkling wines, a white, a macerated white, and a passito. Wines that we have listed in an ideal tasting order, from the most "light" product to the most structured one.
FIVE ROSES NEGROAMARO CLASSIC METHOD – LEONE DE CASTRIS
Among the most historic and representative companies in the entire region is Leone De Castris, which has its roots dating back to 1665. Two of the many anecdotes: Cavaliere della Repubblica, the title granted to the last two generations of owners (conferred by Sandro Pertini the father, and by Sergio Mattarella the son); the first rosé bottled in Puglia in 1943, conceived by the American General Charles Poletti. It is located in the province of Lecce, in Salice Salentino, the heart of the homonymous DOC. And it obviously has negroamaro as its enological reference point. Negroamaro, which, in addition to historical reds and fascinating rosés, is capable of producing exceptional sparkling wines. This is the case of the Five Roses Negroamaro Metodo Classico, a brut rosé that evolves for two and a half years on the lees before disgorgement. A wonderful delicate pink, between powder and peach blossoms, intrigues at first sight. Wild strawberries, raspberries, and pink grapefruit tease the nose along with a hint of floral rose, all enlivened by a touch of mint. On the palate, it is a triumph of citrus freshness, with a crisp acidity that is sharp but never excessive. The classic sparkling wine for aperitifs, perhaps by the pool during the sunny Salentine summers.
PAS DOSE' CLASSIC METHOD – CANTINE 7 CAMPANILI
From one end to the other of Puglia, here is San Severo, the extreme north of the region almost on the border with Molise. The city is now universally recognized as one of the main sparkling wine hubs of Southern Italy. Recently, the Associazione Capitanata Metodo Classico was established here. It comprises seven companies, producing about 300,000 bottles. Still few in terms of quantity, but of indisputable quality guided by the acidic-citrusy verve of the bombino bianco and the elegant structure of the pinot noir - would you have ever said that the king of black grape varieties also has a place in warm Puglia? This is precisely the blend at the heart of the "Pas Dosé" from Cantine 7 Campanili, a company whose name references one of the architectural features of the city of Foggia along with the underground caves where the bottles rest. A bright golden yellow enriched with fine bubbles resulting from an 8-year aging on the lees anticipates a nose that speaks of candied citrus, pastries, and roasted hazelnuts. A sip of great balance between creaminess and zesty acidity remains etched in a long finish enriched with almost saline savoriness and citrus returns. Traditional pairing with raw seafood.
LOCOROTONDO DOC SUPERIORE IL SELVA - ALBEA
There is an area in Puglia that is unique not only for the beauty of its places, starting with the trulli of Alberobello, but also because it hosts two DOCs, both exclusively for white wines, namely Locorotondo DOC and Martina Franca DOC. This is the Itria Valley which, despite its name, is one of the very few spots in this region where on summer evenings it can still be necessary to wear a jacket or a light sweater. These temperature variations and the limestone soils benefit the native grape varieties verdeca, bianco d’Alessano, and minutolo. In different percentages (the first provides acidity, the second structure, the third aromaticity), they form the ampelographic basis of the two denominations. The Locorotondo Superiore Il Selva di Albea in Alberobello, a winery with 120 years of history and a museum of wine and winemaking civilization located just steps from the trulli neighborhood, represents this white wine corner with its expressiveness. The pale yellow with greenish reflections is indeed in the identity card of these wines. So are the herbaceous and floral aromas, while the fruit speaks of lime and green apple. The entry on the palate is tense and vertical but then flows into a decent roundness provided by an alcohol content that easily reaches 13 degrees. All of this is completed by a distinct minerality that makes it the perfect glass to accompany the typical orecchiette with turnip tops.
BRIDAL VEIL - LAMONARCA
In Ruvo, just a handful of kilometers from Castel Del Monte, the Lamonarca family has been producing oil for decades (we are in the region that represents more than half of Italian oil on its own) but recently they have also launched a new line of wines to complement the offering of a company very committed to environmental sustainability. Almost all the classic varieties of the region are available, and there is also a blend made up of almost equal parts of bombino bianco (there he is again), malvasia bianca, and moscato bianco, which is not only the only wine from the estate that is not a single variety, but above all is a skin-contact wine, a true orange that is quite uncommon in these parts. The choice of the name – “Velo di Sposa” – is romantic, and the product that emerges after six months spent in terracotta is surprising. Starting with the bright orange hues with almost amber glints. Quince, date, and apricot are the fruity markers, complemented by milk chocolate, beeswax, and nutmeg, creating a nose of great finesse and complexity. The palate is equally elegant, long and fresh, but also juicy. Ideal for pairing with fresh and soft-ripened cheeses.
MACCONE PASSITO NERO DI TROIA - DONATO ANGIULI
Who says that an excellent passito can only come from a moscato, an aleatico, or a natural sweet primitive? And who says that a Nero di Troia can only give life to a great red or a fantastic rosé? This grape variety, which legend claims was brought to present-day Canosa by the Homeric hero Diomedes returning from the Trojan War, but which is actually a cross between Bombino Bianco and the Piedmontese Quagliano, surprised everyone during the 2024 edition of the AIS Dolce Puglia showcase, winning the absolute first prize with the "Maccone Passito Nero di Troia" from the Donato Angiuli winery, based in Adelfia (Bari). It undergoes 12 months of maturation in steel for a glass of impenetrable ruby from which intense aromas of black cherry and raisins emerge, enriched by a rich range of sweet spices and balsamic notes of mint. The sip is almost meaty, with a measured sweetness balanced by smooth tannins. Sensations that linger long along with fruity reminders. Perfect for Sachertorte.
