All roads lead to Rome, they say, and in a way, it is true. Similarly, some countries are said to be forgotten by God. Although improperly, the geographical region identified as Collio gives us this vague sense of isolated villages, sometimes reachable via a single road in and out. Nestled in a border area between Slovenia and the Isonzo, relegated to memories of war and shrines dedicated to the fallen, it is actually a territory endowed with great vitality, dotted with gentle ups and downs contrasting with its fascinating roughness, both geographical and moral.
From the gentle hills where the vineyards are tended like gardens, one can gaze all the way to the Adriatic and, behind, feel the looming gray rock of the Julian Alps
The Collio, shared between Friuli and Slovenia, has retained elements of these cultures for centuries, still deeply connected today, so much so that they celebrated fraternally the dismantling of the last Italian-Yugoslav border when, on May 1, 2004, a large crowd gathered in Piazza della Transalpina. In this reference to Berlin 1989, the last wall of Europe fell, which had separated cities, countries, and families since '47.
Here nature and the hand of man integrate.
Between villages and castles; like in Spessa, S. Floriano or Dolegna the rich woods that surround the region. The wines resemble those who cultivate them, they have their peculiarities; reserved and dry but capable of giving great satisfaction to those who decide to explore their multiple shades. The indigenous whites, such as Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Malvasia, are fresh and elegant, fragrant and savory, perfectly pairing with fish dishes, vegetables, and non-aged cheeses, up to rather simple white meat dishes. But in the approximately 1500 hectares of vineyards in the area, in recent years, the (re)discovery of a winemaking technique almost completely abandoned and perhaps never truly exploded in Europe for white wines outside of family production has taken root.
But let's go in order; at the eastern end of the Collio, on the road that connects S. Floriano with Gorizia, we find Oslavia, a neighborhood of Gorizia that takes its name from the hill on which it sits, separated from the city by the Isonzo River. The name Oslavia can be understood as the apheresis of Yugoslavia or as a derivation.
From Slovenian "oz elav", interpretable as "the most glorious"
A sort of premonition of glory and beauty. Here, for several years, the revolution we mentioned has been underway; since 1996, when Josko Gravner decided to try vinifying white grapes using the technique of skin maceration. This was following some hailstorms that destroyed almost all of the production. The intuition proves successful, and after a trip in 2000 to Georgia, where he discovers ancient fermentation techniques, he acquires and brings to Italy the terracotta amphorae (kvevri) to macerate his Ribolla. From the aging process emerges a wine with an amber color, almost orange, thanks to the transfer of tannins contained in the skins. But it’s not just the color that benefits from this treatment; the wine on the nose and palate is more structured and impactful, definitely flavorful.
Both "umami" and the echo have reached Japan.
The path is thus paved, the experiment has been successful, and from this moment on, an increasing number of alien vines are being uprooted and replaced with indigenous varieties, respecting the urge to do what feels right. And thus, the cycle closes; in the age of the circular economy, we return to reclaim abandoned techniques in the name of industrialization, profit, and standardized products; we return to discussing wine and food slowly, as our fathers used to. The ancient practices of our ancestors grant us a wonderful new chapter in our country's wine culture, and suddenly this berry gifts us with a complex and harmonious wine, ideal for pairing with important local dishes such as fatty or smoked fish, strong meats like game, soups, and even fried vegetables, all the way to exotic cuisines.
Starting from the assumption that everything outside the skins will eventually be consumed, techniques of organic and biodynamic cultivation are developed in conjunction with a love for the land, which is the home of the producers, committed to creating a harmonious environment rich in biodiversity. Thus, alongside the rows of vines, one can see ponds, thickets, flowering plants, and bird nests, with the belief that life brings more life.
In 2010, with the aim of protecting the territory through the vine, its land, and its people, the producers' association Ribolla di Oslavia was established.
Seven wineries - Dario Prinčič, Fiegl, Gravner, Il Carpino, La Castellada, Primosic, Radikon - dedicated to the development of a unique project at the national level that in 2018 saw the creation of a path ideally connecting the producers along a pleasant walk through terraces and views of the plain. An elevated path dotted with (seven) orange benches, an invitation to pause and reflect on the connection between the past and future of this place, where looking beyond the valley leads you to Slovenia, where the names of your hosts have little resemblance to Italian, where it is advisable to abandon reason and proceed spontaneously. Here we realize that borders are much more fluid than in our minds, and that collaboration, respect, and sharing can be more than just words. With a glass of Ribolla in hand, we understand that human beings are capable of great things when they treat with respect and love what nature provides.
