If wine were music, attending a FIVI event would be a lot like being at a Bruce Springsteen concert. And anyone who’s been there at least once in their life would immediately get the metaphor. For those who haven’t been there (yet), I’ll try to explain.
To begin with, a “stage” with few or no special effects. Just authenticity, energy, and giving it your all for your audience. Next, a connection that feels intimate from the very first notes—or rather, the first glasses. The people beside you aren’t there because they asked themselves that boring question in the morning—“What should we do tonight?”—but because they want to learn, discover, and listen. And the speaker does so because what they have to say represents the very essence of their being as a winemaker. In short, a connection that, at some point late into the evening, you realize is exactly like the one between the “boss” and their fans.
I hope the other winemakers won’t hold it against me—I have the deepest respect for them, and in many cases, we’re even friends. But there is a certain sparkle, perhaps even a touch of madness—just like Bruce when he shakes up his setlists to accommodate requests from the audience—in the eyes and words of those who, by definition, vocation, and regulation, personally oversee every single stage of their wines’ journey, from vineyard management to bottle labeling. “And sometimes, just like tonight, it’s us who pour the wine into the glasses.”
Gianni Mauriello is a strapping 41-year-old, standing 6 feet 1 inch tall, who moves and talks, lifts boxes, and works up a sweat in his iconic purple T-shirt just like all his other colleagues—even though he has served as the FIVI Puglia Delegate since last year. Owner of the Casa Primis winery in Stornarella, in the Foggia area, he welcomes me, along with host Luigi Di Tuccio, at the entrance to Antica Enotria, the Cerignola-based winery that hosted the fifth Apulian edition of “Sabato del Vignaiolo,” a national event through which the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers meets with wine enthusiasts to showcase not only their products but, above all, their philosophy. The event takes place throughout Italy, organized locally by individual regional groups. Such as the one comprising 43 Apulian wineries, most of which are no larger than 5 hectares.
Because to be an independent winemaker, you also need a certain amount of philosophy—if not outright madness.
And readers shouldn’t make the mistake of thinking that an association like this only includes names that might take a back seat in the mainstream. From Morella to Gianfranco Fino, to name just a few from Puglia, the list of “big brothers” (in terms of awards and fame) is quite long. And then, as we know, it is often among the “smallest” that the most beautiful gems are discovered. Like those who have also embraced the Retrogusti project: from Margherita Nistri and her unique story to Roberta De Quarto and her fascinating macerated Fiano, all the way to Bruno Garofano and his son Gabriele with their Antico Palmento in the heart of Manduria. “In Puglia,” explains Mauriello, “the FIVI culture isn’t yet as deeply rooted as in other regions, but we’re noticing growing curiosity and an ever-increasing number of people reaching out to us.”
Of course, not all that glitters is gold—or straw-yellow… The current period is marked by a series of factors that are causing producers no small amount of headaches. And even a festive occasion like this can serve as a starting point for realistic reflection. “The times we’re going through aren’t easy,” Mauriello continues, “a number of factors have all converged, leading to a decline in consumption. We’ve tried to push wines that are either dealcoholized or low in alcohol. The former haven’t caught on, and anyone who’s tasted them knows why. As for the latter, I wonder: is it even possible to naturally produce low-alcohol wines in a hot climate like Puglia’s?”
I tried to find answers by listening to the views of other producers. Like that of Fabio Zullo, from Masseria Masciullo (Brindisi). “We FIVI winemakers,” he says, “are by definition guardians of our territories against climate change: ours are all small estates, so we don’t overwork the soil, we keep the landscape diverse, and we defend biodiversity. What’s needed is a shift in how wine is communicated—in the sense that today there’s too much communication, while we should be trying to reach out to young people, who are gravitating toward different tastes but haven’t been won over by non-alcoholic products.”
This journey isn’t just from one tasting table to another, but also from one province to another in Apulia. With Francesco Mazzone, we head up to Ruvo, in the Bari area, where Mazzone Winery is based. He offers a candid and objective analysis. “There are two tracks along which the current situation is moving. On the one hand, at the national level, there is a lack of unity between small and large producers, in the world of wine as well as in that of olive oil. And we know that where there is no unity, a potential collective strength is lost. On the other hand, there is a market distorted by an excess of supply, which large companies can address by lowering prices. This, however, is impossible for us small producers, although there is recent good news that FIVI has been included in ministerial discussions on par with major agricultural associations such as CIA and Coldiretti.”
Not everyone is capable of looking for the good news, the silver lining, and hope, even when the ground seems to be crumbling beneath their feet.
And, just as a Springsteen concert’s moment of protest—with songs like “American Skin” or “The Ghost of Tom Joad”—is followed by a phase of optimism, almost of redemption. “All of this, however,” Mazzone emphasizes, “does not prevent us from continuing our work as guardians of the land and our traditions. Even if we happen to face a season that ends with a loss, you’ll never see us give up and shut down. Even if we wanted to, we couldn’t: we’re too deeply connected to our lands and our traditions, which are very often the result of bonds forged through the work of our parents and grandparents.”
Words that pack a punch just like “The Promised Land” or “The Rising.” Yet something is still missing to round out the Apulian tale of “Sabato del Vignaiolo.” It’s a female voice. It belongs to Marianna Annio, who—to stay with the musical metaphors—can only be described as the Patti Smith of Apulian wine. The owner of Pietraventosa (Gioia del Colle) pauses for a moment to reflect. Then she answers in one breath: “Tenacity is our defining trait, especially the ability to change, in a sort of natural evolution that causes us to alter our habits. Of course, it’s not easy, but we try to keep moving forward with our work; unity and resilience set us apart. Sometimes we seem tired, but ours is an innate spirit of resilience. We look ahead and grit our teeth. We carry on a natural legacy that is neither snacks nor soft drinks, but the story of our farming and winemaking traditions.”
The lights come back on, and the band waves to the audience. It’s a feeling that all wine enthusiasts know well: in the ideal musical score that is the world of agriculture, wine is the Mozartian inspiration that changes everything forever. The novelty is that FIVI, with its authentic and forthright nature—at times almost going against the grain—can only represent its purest rock spirit.