In the dry, sandy hills that lead to the beautiful sea of Sulcis, a particular grape variety is cultivated that, resistant to heat and wind, accustomed to drought and sandy soil, withstands even the evolving taste over time. Carignano, of probable Spanish origins, is considered an indigenous grape variety of Sardinia, where it has adapted well to the climate. Initially used as a secondary grape by Sardinian winemakers, it has gained its place to be vinified in purity. With a straightforward character and a significant alcoholic contribution,
Carignano is mostly grown on its own roots.
on sandy soils, mostly in areas close to the sea. The salinity is not lacking among its characteristics but it is not the most defining component of this wine. Remarkable are the results obtained from experiments with its sparkling wine production.
Grown a bit in all the countries that face the Mediterranean, Carignano is referred to in a not very different way: it is Carignan in France, Cariñena in Spain.
While summer tourism is attracted by the coolness of the beautiful Scivu sea, Caletta, Tuerredda, in the vineyard, Carignano, predominantly grown as a bush vine, continues its maturation under the watchful eye of the winemaker. One of the realities that caught my attention is the Giba winery: founded by three young and dynamic partners, but not inexperienced, it immediately directed its production towards enhancing the territory of southern Sardinia with the principal grape variety, Carignano.
To visit and taste those bottles, still not widely available, there are two routes from Cagliari. The first route follows the coastline, a long succession of beaches and coves in a breathtaking setting: beauty floods our eyes, our desire is to stop, take a dip, play with bare feet on those very white and fine sands. The second route goes through the inland: little traffic, a long dusty road, very few settlements, the presence of the ghost town of Tratalias, few road signs, and the sun overhead.
At Siliqua, the castle of Count Ugolino
it dominates the plain to remind us that these lands have been inhabited for a long time, despite the difficulties of cultivation. In this choice, there is a declaration of belonging: who will choose the first, winding, coastal road, with wide views of the beaches (and perhaps some refreshing stops) or who will choose the second, less frequented, with few road signs, dust, silence. A choice that tells us who we are. I choose the road that goes through the inland and immerse myself in the sunlit countryside. After a few bends from the castle of Count Ugolino, I suddenly find myself engulfed in a fire: the flames, the smoke, envelop the roadway. Just like the setting in which Dante presents Count Ugolino to us: the thirty-third canto of hell. I recognize above me the typical roar of a helicopter rotor and barely have time to reach a safe stretch of road before the flames engulf the roadway and the helicopter floods them with a cascade of water.
I reach the winery with some friends to learn about and taste the wines. Only two grape varieties are cultivated, Carignano and Vermentino. The manual harvesting of the grapes and the selection of the bunches in the vineyard say a lot about the care that is placed in the production of this wine, which winks at the Carignan from the rest of Europe, while not forgetting the "terroir" of the place. Giba, the name of the wine, reflects the name of the place where the winery is located. Their exceptional wine is undoubtedly the "6 mura rosso", an award-winning Carignano reserve.
Here the centenary vines convey elegance and structure.
There is a fresh fruity scent, of plum, strawberries, and Mediterranean scrub that makes it irresistible to drink. The winemaker Andrés García Blas tells us how difficult the vinification of Carignano is: a challenge of balances to achieve the highest expression of the territory from this grape variety, strong and fragile at the same time.
It is immediate to think of a pairing with a traditional dish: the malloreddus alla campidanese seem to be the perfect companions for this wine that does not shy away from accompanying a grilled horse meat steak or a Carloforte-style tuna. But if the Sei mura has met our expectations, the Sei + is a true discovery. An exceptional wine for intensity and aromas, well solid on the palate and with a long and silky tannic texture. Only just over a hundred bottles for a fortunate few.
There are many things to say about the "6 Mura Rosè": the first is that it is a classic method sparkling wine made using only Carignano grapes. The taste profile of this sparkling wine is very interesting; the small red fruits, pink grapefruit, the saltiness, and the austerity felt on the palate make it a wine suitable for multiple uses. A fresh summer aperitif on a boat, an accompaniment for an important event, a fish dish for an appetizer, small tapas of fish or vegetables, or moscardini alla cagliaritana, Panada of eels, and Pratzidas of vegetables are some examples of possible pairings. It immediately represents tradition, innovation, territory, and care. Just a stone's throw from the sea and carefree beach vacations. Or from a walk in the ghost town of Tratalias, with a quick visit to the castle of Siliqua, belonging to that Count of Gherardesca whom Dante wrote about in his "Divine Comedy." Ideally, without passing through a fire.
