If I say beer, what comes to mind?
Exactly: a golden mug topped with white foam, with that scent of grains and flowers typical of a blonde ale.
But what if I told you that there are beers that smell like speck, scamorza, or smoked salmon?
You would probably wrinkle your nose.
And yet, they have not only existed for centuries, but they are part of one of the historical styles of Southern Germany, originating in Bamberg, in Franconia, not far from Bavaria.
The most famous is Schlenkerla, produced since the 18th century. These are beers that divide drinkers like few others, but they remain a fundamental part of local brewing culture.
The malt is dried over a beech wood fire, and the smoke imbues the grains with a unique and powerful aroma.
A curiosity: the name “Schlenkerla” is derived from the German verb schlenkern, meaning “to limp,” a nickname for a brewer who became lame after an accident with a barrel.
The opportunity to try one came during a visit to Francesca, a brewer from the Mostodolce brewery in Vaiano, above Prato.
The taproom is located right at the entrance of the village: a long table for making friends, always fresh beers, good food. The classic place that we all would want near our home.
This time I decided to test the kitchen as well, attracted by the excellent reviews.
One roasted shank, two cold beers, and the confirmation: the reviews said the truth.
Dami Fumè, their Rauch Märzen at 5.5 degrees, was not on tap: I had it in a can and drank it the next day.
On the nose, it offers exactly what it promises: hints of speck, smoked scamorza, and a touch of caramel. On the palate, it surprises with its lightness, making it easy to drink without effort.
Smoked beers are among the most unique that one can encounter, but they provide an experience that is worth at least a taste.
