I have known Andrea and Mauro for several years now. We often meet at wine fairs around Tuscany, and every time at their booth I find their genuineness and the freshness in the glass and in spirit. On a pleasant sunny Sunday in May, I finally decide to visit them. From Prato, I descend from the hills of Carmignano and arrive at my destination, in Limite and Capraia. Mauro opens the door for me, just back from work in the vineyard, and as I pass through the gate, I find myself in an old rural house; one of those that can no longer be seen, but that I have vividly imprinted in my melancholic childhood memory.
Podere la Botta is a reality that has been passed down for generations, as Andrea tells us, it all began back in 1886 in Limite sull’Arno at the foot of Montalbano, where the first stone tank still in use for their wine production was built. As Mauro also confirms, “Podere la Botta simply comes from a dream, that of grandfather Martino, then of father Beppe and from the Bartolini family tradition. From working the land, as simple farmers, it was natural for us to continue this journey, with a more modern perspective.”
At the entrance of the winery, there is still the old oven from the 1800s.
What Andrea still uses today to make bread on Saturday mornings and which I was lucky enough to taste: something exceptional! Of such genuineness that it brings to mind summer snacks at my grandmother's house with "strusciato" tomato on top. The cellar is divided into two small spaces, but they are kept masterfully: maximum cleanliness, order, everything extremely precise and controlled, and from this, one can understand how such a fine and precise orange was born in its aromas and taste, like their Crono62, pure Trebbiano. No filtration, but constantly oxygenated by hand with pump-overs morning and evening, then left to settle and bottled in March.
We continue our visit by venturing into the vineyards, while Andrea presents to us step by step his grape varieties, explaining the ongoing processes and also the difficulties encountered with each single variety. The cultivation in some parts of the estate is still as per ancient peasant tradition, where the rows of vines alternate with olive trees and fruit trees,
Heritage of a time when every square centimeter of land was precious
It had to be maximized. Work is still done just like before, even in the newer parts of the vineyard: hard and laborious manual work, with only the aid of the tractor and - precisely because of this human effort - the natural expression of the hills is followed to the maximum; the land is listened to, interpreted, and respected to create a unique bond between man and nature. There is an intense energy that is felt by sinking your feet into the soil of these vineyards, immersed in the green of the Tuscan countryside.
Upon returning to the farm, we sit at the table in the courtyard of the farmstead and finally showcase their wines. In addition to the production of Chianti DOCG, these guys have been able to enhance and reinterpret tradition, using indigenous grape varieties to produce new wines with a modern interpretation, more vibrant and fresh, absolutely from Generation Z.
Like the Mammolo, always present in our Tuscany.
(as early as the 1600s, the botanist Micheli in his “Istoria delle viti” had already identified various biotypes in the area) and reached Corsica, where - known as Sciaccarello - it has been recognized by the French to have Italian origins and affinities with our grape variety. A grape variety that is traditionally considered complementary to Sangiovese, and - precisely because it is low-yielding and has a low polyphenolic content - almost never vinified in purity and overlooked in favor of other more consistent local varieties with greater anthocyanin content, such as Colorino.
“The Eighth Dwarf,” Mammolo in its purest form, is highlighted here in a stylish and modern rosé version. A play on words and a combination of ideas that, starting from “Mammolo” (the name of this indigenous grape variety, but also one of Snow White's seven dwarfs), inspired them to define it as “The Eighth Dwarf”: something new, told in an absolutely original style. Mauro loves to define his “The Eighth Dwarf” as “a beautiful woman, who on the nose presents herself as still young, fresh, and delicate, but when tasted becomes a more confident and mature woman in high heels and red lipstick.”
A beautiful woman, young, fresh, and delicate, but who becomes a more confident woman in high heels and red lipstick.
Tasting this rosé, the description is indeed spot on! In the glass, it presents a vibrant salmon color, and on the nose, it exhibits an elegant character typically Provençal with fresh floral notes ranging from violets to lavender, aromatic herbs, and small red fruits (wild strawberries being the most prominent). On the palate, however, it tells a different story! The fruit darkens to a ripe cherry; it becomes textured and structured, with a strong sensation of warmth - even though the alcohol content is only 12 degrees - but the residual sugar and structure showcase all its materiality.
Here are the high heels and the red lipstick of this beautiful woman! And I am sure that - if sipped blindfolded - you would hardly identify it by taste as a rosé, but rather as a young red. A dualism that entertains and excites; a new wine that I would pair well with modern sushi, but why not? Also as a simple accompaniment to a chat with a friend.
Crono62 is Indie Rock, while L'Ottavo Nano is definitely more Pop.
I am not usually inclined to personally associate a wine with a feminine and/or masculine character, but I prefer to interpret it (undoubtedly also due to professional deformation, having always worked in music) in terms of sound, perhaps precisely because of my search in the glass for vibrations and new emotions. For me, the Crono62 is definitely Indie Rock, while the Ottavo Nano is certainly more Pop, but both sound really good!
I am certain that wine is a product of its time and can therefore tell us about the past, interpret the present, and already be projected into the future. Mauro and Andrea have been able to listen with humility to their own land and their own wines, managing to give them a new, more modern look, but without distorting their soul, in full respect of the roots. Always remember who you are and where you come from, and you will never be poor in your life. Like on this entire day at Podere La Botta, where I never picked up my cell phone; where I forgot about work emails, social media, and didn't feel the slightest need for them.
