I had wanted to talk about this topic for a long time, I don't know why it matters so much to me, but these are the things that happen for no reason, and you find yourself in it up to your neck.
"Wines of the sands" is actually a colloquial term, with no regulatory reference.
We refer to those wines made from grapevines planted in sandy soils, where the sand composition is over 60%. It's easy to say sand! There are marine sands, volcanic sands, and even sands that originate from the compression and grinding of ancient rocks! Moreover, we have many examples, both in Italy and around the world.
A sandy soil is often referred to as "loose soil": this is due to the low impact of cohesive forces and the absence of natural structure. To get an idea of what it means, just let some sand run through your hands at the beach. In fact, by retaining less water, the most direct consequence is facing a much more draining soil, which forces the root system of the vine to grow deeper and to nourish itself better.
Another peculiarity of these lands is given by the fact that, precisely due to their biophysical characteristics, they allow for the cultivation of so-called "own-rooted" vines, as phylloxera cannot find fertile ground and establish itself. This damned aphid, phylloxera, which has so greatly influenced European viticulture, does not thrive in sandy soils and consequently today we still have a small invaluable treasure to protect: we manage to drink those same wines that our great-grandparents used to drink (more or less!). The sands (and more) therefore allow us to have vines with an intact genetic heritage that is not influenced by the practice of grafting onto American rootstocks, which is normally necessary due to the phylloxera invasion in Europe, which barely bothers American roots, while it feasts divinely with our dear European roots.
The most distinctive features of wines made from grapes grown on sandy soils can be found in the nature of the soil: richer, colorful, and compact soils provide more polyphenols to the grapes, compared to sandy soils, which instead produce more fragrant and elegant wines, accompanied by a less powerful structure. Another indication is typically provided by the limited capacity to produce long-lived wines. Therefore, floral and fruity aromas and tasting freshness, accompanied by a typically lighter color, are the most distinguishable traits in this type of wine.
In Italy, we can boast a jewel like the DOC Bosco Eliceo, in the Po Delta area.
With soil composition where sand reaches up to 95-97% and where the Fortana grape, in particular, has created its habitat of excellence, contributing to the production of a wine in either dry or sweet versions, often sparkling, fragrant, with a notable acidity, and absolutely perfect for accompanying the region's "rich" cuisine.
Another electoral territory is Sulcis, in Sardinia.
The DOC Carignano del Sulcis is perhaps the most representative of these types of wines, with soils where the presence of sand sometimes reaches up to 99%. The Carignano, grown on its own roots in bush form, has adapted very well to these extreme conditions of heat, drought, and mistral, producing flavorful and characterful wines with significant hints of Mediterranean scrub, myrtle, and juniper.
Leaving national borders, the famous area of Colares in Portugal is where Colares DOC is produced.
It is an extremely fascinating place, where the vines are left sprawling on the sands without support just a few meters from the ocean, protected from strong winds by stone walls and reeds (less than 30 hectares survive). The grape varieties used are ramisco for reds and malvasia di Colares for whites. They are wines with a strong oceanic character, influenced by wind and saltiness, balsamic, lean, sparse, and with low alcohol content. Their high acidity allows them to have a long lifespan. I invite you, among other things, to visit this dreamlike place: you will be left speechless.
But the true paradise, from a scenic, historical, and evocative point of view, is undoubtedly the Camargue, in the south of France.
Wonderful beaches washed by the Mediterranean. A meeting place of cultures, between Languedoc and Gypsy, witches, castles, and wild horses. And great wines, such as the Vins de Sable de Camargue.
It is thanks to magical places like these that we can still boast a shared culture that allows us to imagine viticulture and wines as they once were. This is a journey into the past if we want, but it is also a wonderful journey towards the future: it is up to us to treasure it and continue to enjoy it while passing on knowledge to new generations.
