Just two words—“natural wines”—are enough to spark a debate that, in the world of wine, has been among the most heated in recent years. On one hand, there are those who see this term as a symbol of a return to the essentials, to a form of agriculture that respects the land and its rhythms. On the other hand, there are those who point out that wine, without human intervention, simply would not exist: the natural fate of grape juice would, in fact, be to turn into vinegar.

The truth, as is often the case, is more complex than these dichotomies suggest. This is partly because, to date, there is no legally recognized definition of “natural wine” agreed upon at the European level. Rather, it is a production philosophy—a set of practices shared by many winemakers, albeit with varying nuances.

It is around this idea that events dedicated to artisanal wines have emerged over the years. Among these is Evoluzione Naturale, an event held every January in Grottaglie, in the province of Taranto, which serves as one of the main forums for discussion among producers, industry professionals, and enthusiasts from all over Italy and even abroad.

A Philosophy Before It Is a Set of Regulations

If one tries to identify the common elements among producers who identify with this movement, certain recurring principles emerge: farming practices that prioritize biodiversity, reduced use of synthetic chemicals, spontaneous fermentation, few or no additives, and minimal filtration.

However, there is no single set of guidelines. Some producers adopt organic practices, others biodynamic ones, and still others follow entirely personal approaches. What unites them above all is the desire to prioritize an artisanal approach and to minimize interventions deemed non-essential.

Emblematic in this regard is the definition that the organizers of Evoluzione Naturale—Enza De Carolis, Luigi Armentano, and Ciro Cavallo—give of the event: “It is an event dedicated to artisanal wines, wines made without compromise, without chemical additives either in the vineyard or in the winery. Every year, we select wineries that share this way of working, which is first and foremost a way of life.” More than just a winemaking category, then, it is a vision of the relationship between people, the land, and wine.

The Call of Identity

One of the most interesting aspects of the world of natural wines is the revival of native grape varieties and rural traditions. Many small producers have chosen to promote the historic varieties of their regions, gradually moving away from the international varieties that for years had been an almost inevitable choice.

Among the most significant examples is that of Jacopo Fiore of Podere San Biagio, in Abruzzo, who describes his journey as follows: “I fell in love with this world because it spoke a language that resonated with me.” His return to the winery in 2014 marked a turning point: new vineyards, the revival of native varieties, and the phasing out of international grapes like Cabernet, with the goal of restoring authenticity to the region. This choice is also reflected in his work with Montepulciano, vinified in the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo style—interpreted as an everyday wine, straightforward, and deeply rooted in Abruzzo’s rural tradition.

Further south, on the Ionian coast near Taranto, there’s another winery that follows a similar philosophy. Antonio De Quarto, together with his family, carries on the work in the fields, just as his father and grandfather did before him.

The winemaking process, overseen with particular care by Antonio, consists of vinifying only estate-grown grapes from 20 hectares of vineyards, many of which are home to the magnificent vines trained using the traditional alberello system. Identity, love, and respect for the land and nature have long convinced the De Quarto family to abandon the use of chemicals in order to produce a wine that is described as natural and spontaneous.

But the world of natural wines isn’t limited to production. Many winemakers are building an increasingly direct relationship with the public, transforming the winery into a place for gathering and experiencing wine. Jacopo himself emphasizes how human connection has become central: “Bringing people to the winery and selling directly to them is essential today. But you do this by creating appeal, offering a 360-degree cultural experience: wine, food, music, art.” It’s an approach that clearly reflects a widespread trend: wine not merely as a product, but as part of a broader cultural ecosystem.

A Look Beyond Italy’s Borders

The natural wine movement has now taken on an international dimension. Among the participants at Evoluzione Naturale, for example, are producers from Austria, France, Bosnia, and Hungary. Particularly interesting is the case of Hummel Winery, a historic winery in Villány, in southwestern Hungary, which has been cultivating its vineyards organically since 2008 and biodynamically since 2016.

The winery’s philosophy emphasizes minimal intervention in the cellar and spontaneous fermentation, with the goal of producing wines “capable of accurately reflecting the soil, climate, and culture of Villány.” This statement aptly sums up the ambition of many natural winemakers: to make wine that is as faithful as possible to the place where it is produced.

A Debate Set to Continue

The topic of natural wines will likely continue to divide the wine world for a long time to come. Some appreciate their ability to authentically express the terroir, while others, on the contrary, believe that the absence of shared rules risks creating confusion among consumers.

Beyond definitions, however, the phenomenon has achieved one merit that is hard to dispute: bringing the relationship between agriculture, the environment, and wine quality back to the center of the debate. Because, regardless of the label used to identify them, wines born of a deep understanding of the land and respect for the vineyard represent one of the most fascinating expressions of the contemporary winemaking landscape today. And perhaps this is precisely the most important insight that events like Evoluzione Naturale continue to inspire, year after year.