There are regions where wine primarily reflects a designation of origin, a grape variety, or a production style. And then there are others where, even before the wine reaches your glass, you have to watch your step. Naples, with Mount Vesuvius on one side and the Phlegraean Fields on the other, is one such place.

Here, the land does more than simply support the vines; it becomes a presence in and of itself. It permeates the landscapes, the stories of the wineries, and the wines. It is volcanic sand, ash, stone, and geological stratification. It is a record of eruptions, of buried cities, and of a civilization that, as far back as two thousand years ago, traded the wine produced on these lands.

The journey begins on the northern slope of Vesuvius, on the foothills of Mount Somma, continues on the southern side to Trecase, and ends a little further on, in the Phlegraean Fields, in Bacoli. These three stops are not merely three wineries. They are three ways of exploring a region where viticulture continues to coexist with history, archaeology, and a geology that is impossible to ignore.

Cantine Olivella, on the slopes of the volcano’s oldest part

Sant’Anastasia. It is here, in the northern part of Vesuvius—geologically the oldest—on the slopes of Mount Somma, that Cantine Olivella was founded. We are in the heart of the Vesuvius National Park, in a landscape where viticulture has ancient roots and where the winery has built its identity around the recovery and promotion of local grape varieties and traditional agricultural practices.

The winery’s name itself derives from a specific location. In 1974, a fragment of a wine jar was discovered near the Olivella spring, bearing witness to the area’s long history of winemaking. The mouth of the jar bore the abbreviation of the name Sextus Catius Festus, accompanied by a small seal in the shape of a stylized leaf. That image has become the winery’s symbol.

In the vineyard, this connection to the past is also expressed through concrete practices: ungrafted vines, ties still made from willow branches, in-house production of scions, and suckers used to replace lost vines. And then there’s green manure, organic fertilization, and practices aimed at protecting biodiversity.

Catalanesca: A Rediscovered Identity

The region’s iconic grape variety is Catalanesca, long considered primarily a table grape but now at the center of a growing oenological rediscovery. Tasting it reveals its diverse expressive potential.

With Hèbon, a classic method sparkling wine made from Catalanesca, Caprettone, and Piedirosso—the region’s historic grape varieties—these traditional vines are transformed into sparkling wine. Citrus, white flowers, and aromatic herbs accompany fine bubbles and a mineral finish. The comparison between Katà and Summa, on the other hand, offers two interpretations of the Catalanesca grape. In the former, peach, apricot, and exotic fruits stand out; in the latter—aged partly in amphora and partly in stainless steel—the fruity notes are complemented by hints of the Mediterranean scrub and greater complexity.

Among the reds, Vesuvio DOC showcases Piedirosso and other local varieties through aging in amphorae. Red fruit and Mediterranean herbs lead to a juicy, fresh, and savory sip. The label, placed alongside that of Summa, perfectly completes the shape of the volcano. It’s a subtle graphic touch, but also a way of reminding us that here, the landscape is constantly woven into the wine.

Casa Setaro, the southern slope, and the fire of Vesuvius

From Monte Somma, we move toward Trecase, on the southern slope of Vesuvius. Here lies Casa Setaro, a winery that has helped bring renewed attention to one of the iconic grape varieties of Vesuvian viticulture: Caprettone. Over the years, the Setaro family has forged a path where respect for tradition intertwines with a contemporary approach to winemaking, working with native grape varieties and seeking new interpretations of local varieties.

One of the most interesting offerings is Pietrafumante, a Caprettone-based Metodo Classico aged thirty months on the lees. Flowers and white fruit, fennel, and a delicate smoky note herald a fine effervescence. The wine retains its freshness and a slightly smoky finish, almost as if to evoke the landscape from which it comes.

With Aryete, a Vesuvio Caprettone DOC aged in both amphorae and tonneaux, the profile shifts. Yellow flowers and anise on the nose, followed by a hint of salt and a characteristic almond-like finish. Among the reds, Munazei, a Lacryma Christi Piedirosso DOC, highlights the grape variety’s most immediate and juicy qualities: currants, red mulberries, black cherries, and violets accompany a fresh and dynamic palate. Don Vincenzo, a Lacryma Christi Riserva made from Piedirosso and Aglianico, provides the perfect conclusion to the tasting. Here, time becomes a fundamental ingredient: cherry, blackberry, black pepper, thyme, and bay leaf come together in a deeper structure, supported by freshness and a tannic texture. It is perhaps the wine that best represents Casa Setaro’s effort to balance two goals: maintaining the territory’s distinct character while seeking depth.

From Vesuvius to the Phlegraean Fields: When the Volcano Changes Its Face

The journey continues toward Bacoli. The landscape changes, but the fire remains beneath our feet. We are in the Campi Flegrei, a region with its own distinct winemaking identity—different from that of Vesuvius but equally deeply rooted in geology. Here lies La Sibilla, a winery owned by the Di Meo family.

Five generations of winemakers, ungrafted vines, and a history rooted in the winemaking and culinary traditions of the Phlegraean Fields. The first labeled bottles date back to 1997. Over time, the winery has established an increasingly recognizable identity, supported by the family’s new generation. Falanghina is the signature grape variety. But the Falanghina of the Phlegraean Fields possesses its own unique characteristics and often finds its defining traits in its freshness and, above all, its savory notes. Even the cellars used for aging the bottles tell the story of the region: they are located in Roman-era structures granted for the winery’s use by the Superintendency.

With Cruna Delago 2023, the Falanghina of the Campi Flegrei reveals one of its most intriguing expressions. Apple, white flowers, and briny notes precede a sip that strikes a particularly successful balance between fullness, freshness, and savory depth. But it is the comparison with Cruna Delago 2013 that elevates the tasting experience to something more. Time has changed the wine without dampening its spirit. Hints of evolution and a pronounced briny character emerge, but what is most striking is the vitality on the palate. The wine remains fresh, with the salt seeming to literally settle on the tongue.

It’s one of those moments when a tasting ceases to be a mere succession of sips and becomes a memory. Among the reds, Vigna Madre 2023 comes from 85-year-old Piedirosso vines. Ripe dark fruit meets violet and aromatic herbs. The wine is rounder, yet it doesn’t lose that fresh, savory quality that seems to be a constant characteristic of the region. Finally, Passio 2016, a Falanghina passito made from grapes dried for five months and then subjected to a long aging process.

Dried fruit, honey, fine woods, leather, and raisins gradually layer upon one another. The palate is smooth yet retains its freshness. The finish seems endless. It is a wine that, more than the others, requires time. And perhaps it is no coincidence that it brings the journey to a close.

From Monte Somma to Trecase, all the way to Bacoli, the journey traverses diverse territories. Different grape varieties, different interpretations. But there is one element that recurs constantly: the soil. A soil that is never neutral here. It is volcanic, sandy, ancient. It has preserved ungrafted vines. It has protected Roman ruins. It has transformed the landscape and, inevitably, the character of its wines.