The story goes that this is a very ancient, artisanal Sardinian pasta, whose origins date back to the 17th century in the province of Nuoro. At that time, the hard-working and creative hands of some women began mixing water and salt into a dough made of durum wheat semolina, forming very thin strands of pasta that were hand-twisted, then dried and served in sheep’s milk broth. Its legend is linked to the story of a young man from Nuoro who was accused of a serious crime he had not committed. While awaiting trial, he took refuge in a cave in the Lula mountains. When he managed to prove his innocence, out of gratitude he had a sanctuary dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi built in the countryside of Lula. Every year on May 1 and October 4, pilgrims arrive at this site, where they are welcomed and treated to this pasta called Filindeu, named after the Arabic word “Fidaws” (thread-like pasta).
The technique for making it, passed down orally among the women of Nuoro, is a fragile tradition that survives only in the hands of a very few custodians.
The technique is passed down among local artisans and serves as a symbol of devotion and hospitality. Starting with the ingredients—durum wheat semolina, water, and salt—a dough is prepared and worked until it forms 256 extremely thin strands. These are arranged in three layers on a round mat woven from asphodel and then left to dry. The production of this pasta is limited and exclusive—a true rarity worldwide. The process remains entirely manual, thanks to the meticulous work of a very small number of experts, who have become the true guardians of this exceptional tradition. It is served not only during the pilgrimage but also in top Michelin-starred restaurants.
A testament to this marvelous art of delicate, light textures is undoubtedly Mrs. Anna Saba of Buddusò. I was recently invited and welcomed to the renowned Circle restaurant at the Circolo Nautico di Olbia, where I had the honor of watching Mrs. Anna at work as she demonstrated the various stages involved in making Filindeu.
Watching her spread out the strands and lift them with an elegant gesture is to witness an ancient craft that is renewed with every movement.
The managers of the Circle, Erika and Angelo, did well to give diners the opportunity to watch the preparation and taste the various dishes made with artisanal pastas produced on-site.
Anna is originally from Buddusò, in the historical-geographical region of Logudoro-Monteacuto, a plateau situated between the Nuoro area and Gallura. It is a region rich in history, natural landscapes shaped by granite, folk traditions, local cheeses, sausages, and bread. Watching her at work is a constant source of wonder. Watching her hands as she prepares the pasta, stretches out the strands, and lifts them high with an elegant and graceful poise conveys—not only through the eyes but also through the heart—her mastery and charm.
Her pasta masterpieces, in addition to the “Fili di Dio,” include the “Andarinos,” the “Maccarones lados”—renowned specialties of Buddusò—the “Maccarones de poddighe,” the “Spizzulus,” and the “Alisanzas.”
PHOTO: ANNA AND THE STAFF
A true ambassador for Sardinia around the world. She is often busy with her family, bringing a message of Sardinian identity and culture—so rare and cherished that it is truly one of a kind—to the mainland and abroad, even as far as South America. Creating the Filindeu is not just a craft, but an act of love that unites creativity, devotion, and identity.